Conceptualist signwriter and art sloganeer Patrick Brill’s pseudonymous painter Bob & Roberta Smith does not disappoint in his choice of a loopy favourite dish. But it’s no prankster’s menu. It is rooted in a childhood split between urban crisps and rural game.

Explains Brill: roast pheasant and Walkers Ready Salted Crisps with a side dish of frozen peas is my favourite dish.

Due to a strange set of familial and professional relationships, I had a rather odd but extrodinary childhood. I went to a huge comprehensive school in London but spent all the rest of the time in Wenslydale in North Yorkshire.

I love the wilderness, the sound of the curlew, moortops and being on my own. These days my life is very urban. But roasting a pheasent and eating it with a bag of Walkers crisps is my Proustian madeleine.

Cover the bird in bacon and spriggs of rosemary and bake it for 1 hour and 15 mins.

Boil up some frozen peas and open the bag of Crisps.

Serve with gravy made from red wine, pea juice and slop from the bird.

Then drink till sleep, followed by Neurofen.