Paddles at the ready: W* jewellery editors’ auction picks
Christie’s Magnificent Jewels Spring sale comprises pieces from the world’s leading jewellery maisons, with superb designs from Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels, among others, going under the hammer today. Here, Wallpaper* jewellery editors present their favourites.
Agate, sapphire and diamond ‘Cambodgien’ bracelet, by Suzanne Belperron
Hannah Silver, Assistant Watches & Jewellery Editor: ’Respected lapidary Adrien Louart has brought many Belperron jewels to life, taking on designs which others would have dismissed as technically impossible. Belperron’s style, which embraced volume and unusual gemstones, is just as distinctive as her first pieces were in the 1930s. I love her modern signature, unmistakeable in this sensually curved bracelet carved from agate, one of her preferred stones.’
Images © Christie’s Images Limited 2019
Diamond and enamel ring, by Bulgari
Laura Hawkins, Fashion and Jewellery News Editor: ‘A Baguette cut diamond mounted in enamel: this Bulgari ring has all the emblems of Art Deco. It will give a dynamic gold and black boost to modern evening wear.’
Art Deco lacquer cuff bracelet, by Paul Brandt (1928)
Caragh McKay, Watches & Jewellery Director: ’Of all the art nouveau jewellers, Paul Brandt’s Bauhaus-straight style never fails to draw me in. Born in Switzerland in 1883, Brandt moved to Paris early in his youth. Though jewellery became his focus, Brandt had a rigorous arts apprenticeship in painting, sculpture, engraving and enamelling, encapsulated in his coveted cigarette-box designs of the early 1930s. He described his own style as "jewellery of great design and great construction” of which this superbly modern silver and lacquer bangle is a prime example. Brandt’s sympathies for geometry, economy of design and detail suggest an architect’s eye. In fact, in 1927, he had enticed his friend, the great French architect and interior designer Éric Bagge, to create his exhibition salon.’
Art Nouveau pearl necklace, by Lucien Gaillard (1900)
Hannah Silver, Assistant Watches & Jewellery Editor: ’Alongside Fouquet, Lalique and Vever, Lucien Gaillard still reigns as one of the most notable Art Nouveau jewellers, one of the reasons why he is my pick. Here, 24 baroque pearls echo the wild asymmetry of nature, haphazardly dripping from their golden branch.’
Cultured pearl bangle, by René Boivin
Laura Hawkins, Fashion and Jewellery News Editor: ‘There’s a naturalism behind René Boivin’s creations. When the jeweller died in 1917, his wife took the helm of his Paris-based house and its most renowned design is a 1937 ruby and amethyst set Starfish brooch, with articulated arms. There’s an underwater organicism behind this bangle, with cultured pearls suspended like bubbles around a cuff. It undulates around the wrist like a wave.’
Christie’s Magnificent Jewels auction takes place on 15 May in the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues Geneva