Tribes and tiaras: S/S 2016’s loudest jewellery statements

Watches & jewellery | 15 Dec 2015 | By Elly Parsons

Valentino: Where tribal masks usually aim to conceal the wearer, they eclectically adorned her at Valentino this season with all manner of warrior rings. Evoking carnival as much as ritual, sculptural bone necklaces and bracelets designed by artist-cum-jeweller Alessandro Gaggio were also heavily featured, completing the show’s avant-garde, Masai-inspired looks. Writer: Elly Parsons. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Saint Laurent: Tiaras adorned the heads of almost all of Hedi Slimane’s spring maidens, creating a string of grunge-princesses that channelled Courtney Love, circa her Hole era. Intended to be less Disney-fantasy and more Glastonbury-mainstage, the tiaras were the perfect rock clique finishing touch. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Gucci: Alessandro Michele’s penchant for antique-effect jewels lavished every finger of his new Gucci girl as if keepsakes fossicked from a long lost Aunt’s jewellery box. Aged gold, tiger-head rings were jewelled in retro hues, while glittering clips, pins, brooches and double-G belt buckles further embellished spring’s print rich collection. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Christopher Kane: Master Kane always thinks a little left of centre and for spring plastic cable-ties became his preferred method of embellishment. Less jewellery and more playful trimming, the cables were layered in colourful tangles around the neck and wrists – effectively tying the whole season together. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Proenza Schouler: Zesty, dangling earrings brightened up the largely monochromatic looks at Proenza Schouler’s New York outing. The fluid, flamenco flavour of the duo’s S/S 2016 show was neatly counteracted by their bold and blocky ear-wear in neon orange and lemon. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

JW Anderson: Building on his popular puzzle choker, and still nodding firmly towards the 1990s, JW Anderson’s metallic neckpiece made a return for spring, even peeking out from under his high necklines. Inspired by the work of American sculptor Richard X Zawitz – known for his infinity stainless steel ’tangle creations’ – the twisting strands of Anderson’s latest choker also reflected his collection’s Keith Haring squiggle prints. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Chanel: Karl Lagerfeld’s ’Terminal 2C’ spring show explored new heights in chic travel apparel with journey-ready slacks and jumpers casually tied around the waist. Chanel’s loose, unpretentious jewellery similarly fitted the relaxed theme, from the models’ clinking bangles to tight headbands, which kept hair neatly taught, and ready for a dash to the departure gates. That said, they were surely in for a delay at the metal detectors. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Givenchy: A respectful quiet pervaded Riccardo Tisci’s almost entirely monochrome collection, shown in New York on the anniversary of the city’s 9/11 tragedy. On the runway oversized circle pendants, representig unity and eternity, added a contemporary modernity to Tisci’s lacy wears. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Sacai: Chitose Abe collaborated with Danish jeweller Sophie Bille Brahe on this season’s catwalk offering that was built around the single chain earring. The fine, delicate pieces (think: thin chains finished with a suspended pearl) made for a refreshing alternative to the chunky bangles, bold chokers and tiaras that were otherwise popular this season. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Salvatore Ferragamo: It was all elegance and modernist lines from Ferragamo for spring, with elongated swinging pearl pendulums in charcoal and cream hues hanging from ears and draped around necks. Unfussy, yet delicate, they were a fitting additon to spring’s clean shapes. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Céline: Enameled black brass hoops were the dominant accoutrement at Céline this season, accompanied by simple yet elegant, square-themed bracelets that possessed a graphic feel. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Hermès: In the wake of the Apple Watch Hermès, jewellery was largely absent this season at Hermès. That said what we did see was statement. As if plucked from a shingle beach, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s laser-cut stone necklace, bracelet and belt-buckles echoed the clean, earthen looks that were seen on the runway. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Lanvin: Alber Elbaz’s last Lanvin show bigged up his signature ruffles and statement chiffon bows, this season secured with sparkling diamante clips. Party-night sequin dresses and wild animal prints were paired with wrap-around chokers that were simply asking for a disco date. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Louis Vuitton: Proving that the tiara isn’t just for princesses, Nicolas Ghesquière’s new-age headpieces (especially when paired with the boxing-glove style leather hand-wraps) brought an empowering edge to his urban warrior-inspired looks. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Prada: Bouncing spherical earrings put a Mod spin on Mrs Prada’s ’more-is-more’ spring Prada theme. The graphic result was as joyful as it was eclectic. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Marni: The trend of fun (and chaotic) accessorising continued at Marni with Consuelo Castiglioni’s layering of multiple 1960s-inspired bangles and cuff-sized hoop earrings. Castiglioni developed her swinging Sixties theme with Twiggy-esque, fluffy lashes and heavy, acrylic frames. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Alexander McQueen: Sarah Burton draped armour-like body chains over spring’s ethereal designs, while her models’ ears were weighed down by elongated strings sporting classic McQueen skulls. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Miu Miu: Mrs Prada crowned her pinafored Miu Miu school girls with a statement headband for spring. The zig-zag band’s youthful girliness perfectly counteracted her models’ goth lips and beyond-the-boudoir ruffled slips. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Emilio Pucci: Geek-chic meets beach-babe might sound like an odd combination, but new Pucci creative director Massimo Giorgetti dove in with asymmetric fish-skeleton earrings that swam down from one ear to meet his fetching underwater embroideries. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Rag & Bone: Wafer-thin, gold loops finished the ears of almost every model at Rag & Bone’s New York City show. The urban hoops featured a gold dagger that cut through the centre of each loop, providing a fresh, futuristic edge. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Alexander Wang: When Wang does jewellery he doesn’t hold back and this season thick, heavy chains added a welcome glint to his girls’ necks and lobes. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

LOUIS VUITTON HERMÈS PRADA ALEXANDER MCQUEEN VALENTINO SAINT LAURENT JW ANDERSON SALVATORE FERRAGAMO GUCCI MARNI GIVENCHY RAG & BONE ALEXANDER WANG CELINE SACAI

Tribes and tiaras: S/S 2016’s loudest jewellery statements

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