Biscuits and Bauhaus: we’ve developed a taste for Hemmerle’s tantalising jewels
Munich fine jewellery house Hemmerle celebrates its 125th anniversary this year. Purveyor to the Bavarian Court of medals and military insignia since 1895, it is famed for crafting the Bavarian Maximiliansorden, an order bestowed for the highest achievements in science and art. Today, Hemmerle is known for unusual material combinations, counting everything from mammoth tusk to ancient jade, walrus bone and 18th-century iron in its aesthetic arsenal.
With regular appearances at art fairs across the globe, Hemmerle has nurtured a clique of collectors drawn to the German jeweller’s witty take on antique arts and materials. The fact that each piece is exceptionally crafted in the brand’s Munich workshops is also a major draw. Here, designer Yasmin Hemmerle shares the influences behind her eponymous brand’s latest jewellery creations.
‘We found these ancient carved piecs of jade on one of our treasure hunts, and immediately thought that they resembled Leibniz biscuits. The spiky reverse set pavé demantoid garnets on top are set in bronze and were carefully selected for their colour.’ – Yasmin Hemmerle
Earrings in white gold on reverse with demantoids, jade and bronze. Images courtesy of Hemmerle
‘From curves in the human form, to geometric lines in modernist buildings, we are inspired by a variety of shapes. Movements like Bauhaus, Neue Sachlichkeit and minimalism have all had influence over time.’ – YH
Earrings in white gold and aluminium with jade and tourmalines
‘This particular peanut wood was sourced in Tucson in the USA. It has a remarkable contrast of light and dark grains in its structure, that makes it look so painterly.’ – YH
Earrings in white gold and copper with diamonds and peanut wood
‘We like to experiment with different woods, from amaranth that changes colour with oxidisation, to olive wood that keeps an incredible smell. The nuances in colour within this nutwood bracelet work perfectly with this shade of moonstone and alongside brown aluminium. The colours melt into each other with a subtlety characteristic of our work.’ – YH
’Harmony’ bangle in nutwood, aluminium and white gold with moonstones
‘This honeycomb structure is inspired by an architectural design. In order to fuse the jade circles and garnets in the centre, we wanted a design that used negative space to make the piece both light in weight and effect. The result was this hand-carved copper structure.’ – YH
Earrings in rose gold and copper with sapphires, jade and zircons
‘Nature is an endless source of inspiration for us, from one of a kind floral forms to the unusual shapes of sea creatures.’ – YH
Earrings in blackened silver and white gold with pearls