Michelin-starred Plates London vegan restaurant review

Plates, London

(Image credit: Photography by Safia Shakarchi)

last updated 11 February 2025

On London's interminably long Old Street, where a chaotic mix of period terraces vies for attention with glitzy tech towers, Plates cuts through the noise like a breath of fresh air. The restaurant, the enterprise of siblings Kirk (an alumnus of The French Laundry and Restaurant Sat Bains) and Keeley Haworth, excels in reimagining the possibilities of plant-based fine dining through technical innovation and a passion for flavour. Plates stands as a much-needed green escape for the palate.

Yesterday (10 February 2025), at the 2025 Michelin Awards Ceremony, it was announced that Plates would be the first ever plant-based restaurant in the UK to receive a Michelin star. ‘To be the first in the plant-based sphere in the UK to win this prestigious award makes me unbelievably proud, and I am so grateful to our talented team for their support and dedication,’ says Haworth. ‘At Plates, we’ve always believed in pushing boundaries, and this achievement proves that plant-based dining can stand proudly at the highest level of gastronomy.’

‘Since it opened, Plates London has been permanently packed – and not just with vegans. The restaurant is full of curious and discerning diners, who are here not because of their diets but because they’ve heard it’s one of the most exciting new restaurants around. Yes, this is a groundbreaking, unique establishment within the UK’s dining scene. But more than that, it’s just a wonderful restaurant with Michelin-Star cooking that could convince the most committed of carnivores,’ explains a Michelin Guide Inspector.

Wallpaper* dines at Plates

The mood: cocooning beauty

Plates’ intimate 25-cover dining room offers a tactile, earthy atmosphere. Designed in collaboration with east London-based Design & That, the interiors echo the restaurant’s plant-based philosophy with materials and craftsmanship that are as sustainable as they are beautiful. Lighting is soft, colours muted, and textures natural – only pigments found in nature adorn the space. ‘From the outset, we prioritised working with local craftspeople, using environmentally-friendly materials, and repurposing where possible,’ says Emma Shone-Sanders, designer and founder of the studio.

‘A focal point is the hand-crafted bar surrounding the open kitchen, made from repurposed felled London trees by Bristol-based furniture makers Mythology. It allows guests to experience an immersive chef’s counter, where they can witness Kirk at work and appreciate the artistry that defines the Plates menu,’ she adds. Reclaimed stone in tables, a recycled linen curtain by local makers Hackney Upholstery Studio, and natural plaster by Clayworks with elements like buckwheat and hemp add a tactile depth to the whole of the interior.

Subtle artistic flourishes include a dried seaweed installation, which nods to the plant kingdom’s versatility and beauty, and designer Colin Chetwood’s handmade aluminium flower-shaped lights, casting a warm, botanical glow. In summer, an additional 14 seats on the outdoor terrace bring the Plates experience into the open air.

The food: nature on a plate

plates london restaurant — Chef Kirk Haworth

Chef Kirk Haworth’s seven-course tasting menu celebrates fruits, vegetables, and plants in their most innovative forms. Each plate champions whole, organic produce sourced from trusted local suppliers while delivering richness in texture and complexity in flavour. Inspired by his journey to manage Lyme disease after his 2016 diagnosis, Haworth’s menu incorporates the healing power of plant-based ingredients that have been integral to his recovery.

Slow cooked leeks, chestnut cream, jalape&ntilde;o and gooseberry dressing, frozen verjus — Slow cooked leeks, chestnut cream, jalapeño and gooseberry dressing, frozen verjus

Start with slow-cooked leeks, served in a velvety chestnut cream and heightened by jalapeño and gooseberry dressing with frozen verjus – a dish that plays with your senses. The house-laminated sourdough bread that follows, paired with whipped cashew butter, fermented redcurrants, and winter spices, is as addictive as it is satisfying. The mains are equally imaginative. Black bean mole, served with barbecued maitake mushrooms, kimchi, aioli, and puffed rice, is a medley of smoky, spicy, and crunchy elements. Meanwhile, the mung and urad bean lasagna layers of earthy, umami-rich beans with cucumber, celeriac, and a miso and chive sauce are artistry on a plate.

House-laminated sourdough bread, whipped butter, fermented redcurrant, winter spices

Mung and urad bean lasagna, cucumber, celeriac, miso and chive sauce

Look forward to the dessert, which breaks free from the typical plant-based reliance on fruit sorbets. Chef Haworth proposes three flawless creations, with the raw cacao gateaux as the crowning jewel. Served with sour cherry, coconut blossom ice cream, African pepper, and toasted macadamia nuts.

Raw cacao gateaux, sour cherry, coconut blossom ice cream, African pepper, toasted macadamia and raw caramel sauce

Plates is located at 320 Old St, London EC1V 9DR, UK; plates-london.com

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Sofia de la Cruz is the Travel Editor at Wallpaper*. A self-declared flâneuse, she feels most inspired when taking the role of a cultural observer – chronicling the essence of cities and remote corners through their nuances, rituals, and people. Her work lives at the intersection of art, design, and culture, often shaped by conversations with the photographers who capture these worlds through their lens.