Fancy Pickled Onion ice cream? Anya Hindmarch says yes

the ice cream project by anya hindmarch review

The weird and wonderful flavours of The Ice Cream Project by Anya Hindmarch

(Image credit: Courtesy of Anya Hindmarch)

The annual opening of The Ice Cream Project by Anya Hindmarch has quietly become an unofficial signal that summer has arrived in London. The project is now in its fourth edition and ‘brought back by popular demand’, but it wasn’t until yesterday that I finally tried the English designer’s wonderfully wacky ice creams and sorbets for myself.

I’m lactose intolerant, but for the sake of journalism (and curiosity), I pretended I wasn’t. This is how I found myself at The Anya Village in Belgravia, hovering between excitement and digestive dread. Was it going to be worth the stomach ache? The answer is yes. I left the pop-up a devoted fan of the Filippo Berio Extra Virgin Olive Oil (it’s in my Spanish blood), Maldon Sea Salt, and Bisto Gravy flavours (weird, I know). And yes, I did try all 15 options available.

The return of The Ice Cream Project by Anya Hindmarch

Before my visit, I had the chance to ask Hindmarch herself how the idea first came about. She explained that it was all about reimagining the familiar and elevating it into something artful. ‘Nothing says summer more than ice cream,’ she stated. And indeed, for something so seemingly simple (yet deceptively complex), the project has become a cult hit, drawing daily queues of curious foodies keen to test their taste buds.

‘It’s always fun to include a few flavours that won’t be universally loved. Even if not everyone likes all of them, there’s someone who loves each one,’ Hindmarch added. This year, Jacob’s Twiglets has emerged as a clear bestseller, while Pickled Onion has proven divisive. I felt brave enough to try the flaming hot Flying Goose Sriracha – an experience, to say the least – but ultimately went home with one of the more subdued editions. It’s all about balance.

The ice cream is made in small batches in Devon, using traditional bases like creamy vanilla or dark chocolate, with original recipes layered on top. Think of it like perfume: top, heart and base notes, only edible. You can grab a scoop on the spot or take home a 500ml tub, neatly tucked into a stylish, paper-like insulated cooler bag. For the indecisive (or the truly committed), there’s The Ice Cream Project Blind Tasting Tea at the Anya Café, complete with an epicurean scorecard.

The space itself leans into minimalism with a lab-like vibe: sleek steel freezers house the tubs, while the windows are stacked high with repeat-branded packaging. ‘The original creative idea was to celebrate our favourite cult food brands,’ Hindmarch said. ‘Since the first iteration, our soft-serve counter has doubled in size.’

The flavour line-up reads like a British pantry daydream: biscuity Bird’s Custard, McVitie’s Milk Chocolate Hobnobs, Ovaltine, Quaker Oats and Rowse Honey sit alongside more refreshing options like Copella Cloudy Apple Juice, Irn-Bbu and Romney’s Kendal Mint Cake sorbets. There’s even the classic McVitie’s Club Orange. Each tub is dressed in its flavour’s original branding, amplifying the nostalgic kick.

The Ice Cream Project by Anya Hindmarch is located at The Village Hall, 11 Pont St, London SW1X 9EH, and is open now through 17 August 2025.

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Sofia de la Cruz is the Travel Editor at Wallpaper*. A self-declared flâneuse, she feels most inspired when taking the role of a cultural observer – chronicling the essence of cities and remote corners through their nuances, rituals, and people. Her work lives at the intersection of art, design, and culture, often shaped by conversations with the photographers who capture these worlds through their lens.