This hidden London culinary haven is a refreshing take on the steakhouse

You might not instantly spot Mr Porter, walking past its discreet entrance on London's famed Park Lane. Yet, venturing down a flight of elegant, monochrome marble steps leads to a world of strong flavours and minimalist dining, courtesy of creative entrepreneur Yossi Eliyahoo, who brought the much-loved Amsterdam steakhouse, bar and lounge concept to the UK capital.

Wallpaper* dines at Mr Porter, London

The mood: less is more

If you think of steakhouses as an environment busy with grilling, hot temperatures and loud music, a visit to Mr Porter will reframe that in an instant. The space, tucked away beneath Hilton Park Lane with a simple copper door signalling its presence to the street, is a haven of calm, defined by low lighting, a refined atmosphere and minimalist yet soft surrounds.

Eliyahoo explains: 'Traditionally, steakhouses have been aged in an aura of masculinity, a perception closely linked to cultural associations with red meat consumption. However, in recent decades, we have witnessed a departure from these binary notions of gender, expressed through a diverse array of representations.

'Mr Porter's challenge lay in reinterpreting these shifting times, the lighter side of protein that extends beyond gender and menu to encompass spatial arrangement, materiality, light, and social inclusivity. And not less important, allowing for one of the essences of the modern self to materialise: its unique desire for originality and authenticity.'

Design studio Baranowitz + Kronenberg worked with Eliyahoo's The Entourage Group to craft an interior that feels at once expansive (at some 700 sq m) and cocooning. The team dreamt up a space inspired by Alice in Wonderland, where the guest arrives and descends to an otherworldly experience, bringing together Mayfair history, 21st-century sophistication and playfulness – not through bright colours or eccentric gestures but through a smart manipulation of space that promotes calm, comfort and freshness. Nothing detracts from the experience of those flavours hitting your palate.

The team says: 'Mr Porter's spatial arrangement encourages flow over formality, inclusivity over protocol and soothing over disrupting. The choice of materials celebrates these defining traits. A mirrored copper ceiling tricks the eye, creating a mirage of infinite space where reflection meets reality. Below, the brushed copper, velvet, and natural travertine stone radiate warmth rather than extravagance. Each surface exudes comfort, and every reflection is intended to disarm rather than impress. The overall palette evokes a monochromatic timeless space that embraces rather than overpowers, leaving a lingering taste for more.'

The food: strength in simplicity

Mayfair's history, once a hub of commerce, indulgence, and debauchery in the mid-18th century, helped inspire this outpost of Mr Porter – in both its design and culinary aspects. 'We never take a copy-paste approach. While the core brand concept remains consistent across all locations, the look and feel are always adapted to each venue. This allows us to offer our guests a unique and tailored experience that reflects the individuality of each city,' Eliyahoo says.

The powerfulness of the interior's apparent simplicity is effortlessly reflected in its dishes, too. It also extends to the entire make-up of the menu, which is varied but pleasingly straightforward, and certainly does not confine itself to meat-based offerings. Vegetables? Tick. Fish? Tick. Luscious desserts? Yep, those are available too. What brings everything together is that every plate appears luxurious, from its portion size to its looks and, of course, taste – all achieved with few ingredients that allow each serving's main protagonist to sing.

Starter highlights include the spicy yellowtail sashimi and feuille de brick, a crunchy pastry wrapped around a delicately balanced filling of spinach and cheese. A range of carpaccio and salad options can make for lighter dining, which will leave you wanting for nothing; however, the main events are without a doubt the meat and seafood dishes. Buttery wagyu, classic rib eyes and ribs, melt in the mouth, perfectly complemented by sides of your choice (you can go green, with asparagus and peppers, or indulgent with chips or – a twist on the classic – sweet potato).

Sweets might feel an overindulgence after the hearty meal Mr Porter provides, but hey, what's life without a 'sinful' (as the menu reminds us, tongue-in-cheek) dessert? The crème brûlée was a surprise. Unconventional and made with caramelised popcorn, sweet corn and jalapeño, it offered the perfect full stop to a well-rounded meal.

Mr Porter was refreshing, which is perhaps not a word often associated with steakhouses. From its quietly luxurious interiors to its balanced, powerfully flavoured culinary delights; adding to this the delicately attentive service, it sure makes for a joy to visit.

Mr Porter is located at 22 Park Ln, London W1K 1BE, UK

mrportersteakhouse.com