Is this London’s slickest burger joint?
Already proven in Paris, Dumbo’s smash-hit formula of precision, confidence, and simplicity arrives in Shoreditch – and yes, it’s worth the wait

The queue snaking out of a graffitied Victorian terraced house at 119 Bethnal Green Road is the clearest sign you’ve arrived at London’s newest and most talked-about burger joint. ‘This is the place where people queue two hours for a burger,’ I hear passersby mutter, eyeing the crowd with a mix of disbelief and envy (we all know they’ll be back tomorrow). The real question isn’t who has time to queue for so long, but rather: how has Dumbo managed to win over first an audience of hungry Parisians and, now, Londoners already spoiled for choice when it comes to sating their fast-food cravings?
First look at Dumbo Shoreditch
‘We started working on Dumbo in 2019 in Paris,’ explain founders Charles Ganem and Samuel Nataf to Wallpaper*. ‘The idea came naturally: we wanted to get back to what a burger really is. Something you eat with your hands, on the go, sitting on a windowsill or leaning against a car. No need for cutlery or ceremony. We spent a few months fine-tuning everything before opening: the recipes, the meat sear, the bun, the overall balance. The goal was to create something pared down but satisfying. Nothing excessive, just well put together.’
Dumbo is known for its stripped-back aesthetic, blobby (at times retro) branding, and a crowd-pleasing menu of just four items: the all-time cheeseburger, a plant-based version, fries, and chicken nuggets – voilà. This ‘tight’ selection allows the team to stay focused, maintain high standards, and deliver consistency. Smashed burgers that smash every time. ‘There’s also something aesthetic about that simplicity. It’s part of our identity. Rather than offer endless variations, we go deep on one product and make it the best version it can be,’ add Ganem and Nataf.
London marks the team’s first venture outside Paris, and they describe it as an ‘obvious move’. ‘It’s a city that values both quality and spontaneity,’ says Ganem. In a neat twist, he tells me that just a few metres away from where Dumbo’s London outpost now stands is where Nataf got his very first hospitality job. ‘The food culture here is exciting – a mix of institutions we’ve always looked up to, like St John, Rochelle Canteen and Beigel Bake, and newer spots that shape the scene today, like Mountain or Café Cecilia.’ While the buns follow the recipe from Dumbo’s artisan baker in Paris, the team partnered with HG Walter in London to develop a bespoke British dry-aged beef blend.
Precise, confident, and refreshingly unfussy – that’s Dumbo. For the London site, Ganem and Nataf collaborated with local architecture firm Red Deer to design the compact interiors. There’s no seating here, just a sleek service window and an open door that spills natural light into a tightly choreographed space as minimal as the menu. A soft colour palette is accented by warmer touches – reclaimed cabinetry, hardwood joinery, a vintage clock.




‘We scraped through imagery of traditional east London “cafs” and enjoyed their simple palettes and unapologetic use of utilitarian materials, prioritising ease of cleaning while still imbuing the space with the casual warmth so typical of that vernacular. Brushed stainless steel and Formica define the joinery and counters, in homage to the working-class haunts of the area. The colour choices were deliberately inspired by a working scullery, using National Trust-certified heritage paints,’ explain Red Deer’s founders Lionel Real de Azúa, Ciarán O’Brien, and Lucas Che Tizard.
A few weeks ago, I accidentally came across Dumbo’s Marais location and spotted one of the founders quietly observing from outside – a fitting image of their philosophy: ‘Stay close to the team and get every detail right.’ When asked what’s next for the burgeoning brand, Ganem and Nataf assuredly comment: ‘We’re already thinking about the next locations, but nothing rushed. Each one has to make sense culturally, operationally, and in terms of who’s running it. We’re growing carefully, with intention.’
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.



Dumbo Shoreditch is located at 119 Bethnal Grn Rd, London E2 7DG, UK
Sofia de la Cruz is the Travel Editor at Wallpaper*. A self-declared flâneuse, she feels most inspired when taking the role of a cultural observer – chronicling the essence of cities and remote corners through their nuances, rituals, and people. Her work lives at the intersection of art, design, and culture, often shaped by conversations with the photographers who capture these worlds through their lens.
-
Exclusive: Thom Yorke and artist Stanley Donwood reminisce on 30 years of Radiohead album art
As the pair’s back catalogue of album sleeves, paintings, musings and more goes on show at Oxford’s Ashmolean, Radiohead singer-songwriter Yorke and his longtime collaborator Donwood talk exclusively to Wallpaper’s Craig McLean
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the week
This week, our editors have been privy to the latest restaurants, art, music, wellness treatments and car shows. Highlights include a germinating artwork and a cruise along the Pacific Coast Highway…
-
An instant modern classic, the new Hyundai Inster is an all-conquering, all-electric city car
Small EVs are making big waves as the tech continues to evolve. Hyundai shows everyone else how to do it
-
A complete collection of Phaidon’s ‘Contemporary Artists Series’ is on display in London
A 30-year project reaching 100 volumes is being celebrated with an exhibition at the 45 Park Lane hotel, including limited-edition works by Kaws and Dana Schutz
-
London’s best pizza restaurant gets a new home in Mayfair
Secure a slice of New York-style pizza in central London as Crisp Pizza teams up with the Devonshire pub to set up shop in the relaunched The Marlborough
-
At this east London listening bar, mezcal-fuelled cocktails hit as hard as the basslines
In Bethnal Green, Little Fires pairs vinyl grooves with mezcal margaritas and Oaxacan sharing plates
-
Harry Nuriev’s Noisy Oyster London bistro isn’t quite finished – and that’s the point
A futuristic, work-in-progress aesthetic forms a striking backdrop for a new, sustainably focused seafood bistro in Shoreditch
-
Head to Lupa for a taste of Rome in the heart of Highbury
Ed Templeton, Theo James and Naz Hassan unveil an intimate 28-seat restaurant that balances a cosy, candlelit atmosphere with Roman-style dining
-
Underground grooves and a touch of ‘controlled chaos’ make this exciting Japanese-inspired restaurant one to book
Moi, a new subterranean hotspot in London, is a feast for the senses
-
Café Kitsuné doubles down on London with a new location
Café Kitsuné continues its global expansion with a bijou two-floor venue in Covent Garden that prioritises both craft and flavour
-
You can live out your Gatsby dreams, thanks to Claridge’s new Jazz Age-themed sleepover
Check in for the legendary hotel's Bright Young Things Sleepover — Shalimar perfume included