A buzzy Korean pop-up becomes a permanent fixture in East London

Joo Won left his native South Korea to undertake classical French training at Galvin at Windows on Park Lane, where during his seven years as head chef, he maintained the restaurant’s Michelin star. A research trip to Seoul re-connected him with Korean cuisine and he launched Calong as a pop-up in 2021. Now, the concept has found a permanent home, bringing a fusion of Korean techniques and European ingredients to Stoke Newington.

Wallpaper* dines at Calong, London

The mood: If Busan made bistros

‘Calong’ is a Korean word from Won’s hometown of Busan, which, he says, ‘means being hip, trendy and dressed up to show off.’ Don’t take him too much at his word, though. The cosy 30-seat dining room, which Won designed with his wife Sujin, feels like a comfy bistro-wine bar, with brick walls and bentwood chairs illuminated by Tala lamps and each day’s menu chalked up on a blackboard. A couple of tables are always kept for walk-ins if you haven’t booked ahead.

The food: Korean exchange

Won’s training may be in fine dining, but his cooking has taken a more casual turn here, remaining unlike any other Korean food in London. European cooking and ingredients are given a distinct Korean accent in the likes of the signature dish of rice baked in a clay pot with mixed mushrooms, with a dollop of brown butter melting in the middle and served with soy sauce infused with roasted vegetables: sweet, salty and savoury all in one mouthful. Pressed brawn with bossam mooli, meanwhile, is the sort of wine bar small plate that is precision-tuned to match the snappy list of all-organic drinks, mainly low-intervention wines, sourced from small producers.

Calong is located at 35 Stoke Newington Church St, London N16 0NX, United Kingdom; calonglondon.com

• See more of London's newest restaurant openings