Cartier’s 2021 high jewellery collection launches
The new Cartier collection of high jewellery is a vivid play on colour and texture
‘This collection is about challenging our perceptions,’ says director of High Jewelry Creation Studio at Cartier International, Jacqueline Karachi. ‘It reveals the overwhelming emotions we feel when encountering beauty.’ This year’s new collection, Sixième Sens Par Cartier, plays with iconic Cartier design motifs, with the sensual feline and graphic Art Deco codes interpreted in a juxtaposition of precious gems.
Exceptional stones are celebrated in designs which put them as the focus. In the Phaan ring, a rose-cut diamond is inserted underneath a dazzling ruby in an architectural form which creates a brilliant refraction of vivid red light. Diamonds, onyx and rock crystal form a hypnotic checkerboard in the Meride necklace; in the Pixelage piece, the Cartier panther pattern is drawn in polished onyxes and white, yellow and orange diamonds.
‘The Meride necklace is inspired by the effects of shimmering,’ Karachi tells us, ‘while the trompe l’oeil necklace plays with materials - onyx for its graphic black, diamond for its brilliance, rock crystal for its transparency. Full and empty, clarity and shadow, mirror polish of precious metal surfaces ... this necklace is like a labyrinth for the eye. The gaze is agitated and plays with the perspective.’
It is an intensive experience carried through to the rest of the jewellery which cuts fluid loops around the body. In the Parhelia ring, a sapphire cabochon with diamond and emerald wings appears to flutter on the finger; set free, it detaches and becomes a brooch. In the Alaxoa necklace, a sensual zip of emeralds winds its way up to the neck. ‘The material and the volume, gifted with a fantastic power of suggestion, are a source of stimulation for our senses,’ adds Karachi. ‘They are sharpened by light and colours. The sixth sense allows us to feel beyond what is physical, tangible, and rational. It is the connection between emotion and sensations. It is a combination of the five others, which allow us to bring life to jewellery.’ §