Hermès' subversion of the classic chain is modern, sensual and very cool

‘I didn't come up with the idea of turning the anchor chain into a piece of jewellery, Robert Dumas did, but I would have liked to have thought of it first,’ says Pierre Hardy, creative director of Hermès’ jewellery. ‘Back in 1938, Dumas also had the ship's chain made for women, on whose wrists the masculine bracelet looked particularly delicate and feminine.’

It is a history Hardy is drawing on with the launch of the new Chaîne d’ancre collection, which subverts a familiar form with a reinterpretation of the classic heavy link. Elongated, maximised, rounded, lengthened - silhouettes here are gloriously eclectic, in simply minimalist rings or in rows of juxtaposed styles wound around the neck.

Functionality is a key component of the design throughout, with the clasp, worn at the front, central to the aesthetic. A link can become an earcuff, or jumbled together to form a minaudière, worn swinging from the shoulder.

‘This collection is about an icon of the Maison,’ Hardy adds. ‘We focused on a single object, like we did in the Kellymorphose collection in 2021, which was inspired by Kelly's locks and brought out all the potential and messages it contained.’

Nautical and fluid references here, too, are faithful to Hermès’ historical references. ‘There are a lot of stories and messages in it. Among them, we can think of the robustness and fluidity, or solid and liquid, reminiscent of the origin of the motif, the maritime theme. The chain is both strong and fluid, like the flow of water. Thanks to this, we were able to emphasise the robustness within Chaine d'Ancre while also highlighting the chain's smooth movement, which became a great theme. Depending on the materials and the presence of diamond settings, we were able to meet Chaine d'Ancre in completely different forms.’

When cast in white and rose gold, and studded with diamonds, spinels or sapphires, the chain takes on a seductive new identity. ‘Accumulating, merging and fluidifying, I explored several territories starting with the archetypal form,’ adds Hardy.