NoMad London’s new restaurant fast-tracks you to New York’s jazz age

In just four weeks, the London-based Martin Brudnizki Design Studio (also behind Annabel’s, Broadwick Soho and the Fifth Avenue Hotel) transformed the main dining area of the NoMad London hotel into a bold bistro inspired by 1920s New York. Now called Twenty8 – a nod to the hotel’s address, a location that was once the Bow Street Magistrates’ Court and Police Station – the new venue retains the lush, airy atmosphere of the former Atrium restaurant but is now enriched with more substance and personality. That means fewer pastel velvets and more eclectic antiques and storied artworks.

Wallpaper* dines at Twenty8 NoMad, London

The mood: a modern take on The Palm Court

In many ways, Twenty8 serves as a bridge for the London hotel to reconnect with its New York heritage (the very first NoMad hotel launched on NYC’s Broadway, on a site that's now home to The Ned NoMad), especially since it was the first NoMad hotel established outside the United States. Swedish architect and designer Martin Brudnizki took the reins on the redesign of the restaurant, which was initially envisioned by the studio Roman and Williams, as was the rest of the hotel, which first opened in 2021.

A lushly landscaped glass atrium fills the space with light, creating a relaxed yet theatrical atmosphere. Brudnizki describes his vision as a ‘modern take on The Palm Court, where old-world glamour meets a relaxed, residential elegance’. He’s referring to the Palm Court of Manhattan’s Plaza Hotel, famously portrayed in F Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby.

Accordingly, the colour palette throughout is warm and earthy, complemented by bistro-like accents of rattan, wood, and metal. A sense of timelessness prevails. Tables feature Giallo di Siena marble tops, while the bar counter showcases honed Florentine sandstone. Meanwhile, recycled Burmese teak flooring adds a touch of history, complemented by polished lacquered finishes. Art is central to the identity of the space. ‘There is a quiet thread running through the space, with photography by Napoleon Sarony. He captured everyone from Oscar Wilde to Sarah Bernhardt, and his portraits appear throughout. They add a sense of wit and charm – something to catch the eye and invite guests to linger,’ says Brudnizki. It was at this address that Wilde was detained overnight in 1985.

The food: family-style New York dining

NoMad London’s executive chef Zak Gregoire, who began his career as an intern for the hospitality group and rose to support other hotel openings, and food and beverage director Vanessa Mosca lead the kitchen day-to-day under the guidance of culinary director Bryce Shuman. Offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner, the menu emulates New York family dining style, enhanced by quirky twists and local touches. A highlight on the drinks front is the dedicated martini menu, available in mini and traditional sizes, and comprising everything from the Manhattan to the Twenty8 Martini, finished with a smoked-olive-stuffed-with-blue-cheese garnish.

The decadent NoMad burger, with a zesty lemon caper vinaigrette, and creamy lobster roll embody beloved American classics, whilst the seared Atlantic cod and frisée salad, with pork belly, poached egg, and avocado, provides a refreshing twist. More nostalgic touches include a crudités plate that pays homage to Union Square Greenmarket, where, coincidentally, Napoleon Sarony’s famous studio and gallery were located, and the grilled flatbread featuring a secret dough recipe from one of Little Italy’s most cherished pizza shops. I had a wonderful tiramisu for dessert to add an extra Italian-American touch to the experience.

Twenty8 NoMad is located at 28 Bow St, London WC2E 7AW, United Kingdom.