This September will mark the arrival of Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2024, a new season of collections presented in New York, London, Milan and Paris and comprising shows from established houses and emerging names alike. Notable moments include Sabato De Sarno’s much-anticipated first collection for Gucci (following Alessandro Michele’s exit in 2022), Peter Do’s debut at Helmut Lang, and a celebration of 30 years of Newgen in London, including a comprehensive exhibition on the city’s rebellious style at the Design Museum.
Here, as fashion month begins in New York today (September 8, 2023), discover everything Wallpaper* knows about Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2024 so far.
Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2024: what to expect
New York Fashion Week S/S 2024 (8 – 13 Sept 2023)
A buzzy New York Fashion Week in February – which included appearances from international houses Fendi and Marni, alongside a slew of NYC natives – marked something of a return for the week, which had run with a largely depleted schedule in seasons prior. The September edition looks to continue this buoyant mood: American behemoth Ralph Lauren has announced that he will return to the New York Fashion Week runway after a 4-year hiatus on the evening of September 8 (he last showed on-schedule prior to the pandemic in 2019).
Opening the week on September 8, Vietnam-born, New York-based designer Peter Do – formerly of Phoebe Philo’s Celine – will make his debut as creative director of Helmut Lang. ’No one embodied radical thinking more definitely than Helmut Lang,’ Do said in a statement. ’It is my deep honour to be entrusted with ushering in the next chapter of [his] legacy.’ Elsewhere, Proenza Schouler, Eckhaus Latta, Area, Zankov, Tory Burch, Gabriela Hearst, Elena Velez, Dion Lee, Michael Kors, Puppets & Puppets, Willy Chavarria and Luar (who will close the week on 13 September) make up the eclectic schedule.
London Fashion Week S/S 2024 (15 – 19 September 2023)
London Fashion Week will mark 30 years of Newgen – the British Fashion Council’s incubator scheme which has supported the early careers of many of the designers now on the schedule – with a series of events, including an exhibition at the Design Museum. Opening during the week, ‘Rebel: 30 Years of London Fashion’ (16 September 2023 – 11 February 2024) will celebrate the rebellious design codes of Newgen alumni, from Jonathan Anderson to Wales Bonner. ‘It is impossible to underestimate the influence London has on Britain’s fashion talent a city that produces wave-after-wave of young designers that value originality, wearing what you believe in, and tackling social issues to make a better world,’ says guest curator Sarah Mower MBE, the BFC Ambassador for Emerging Talent.
Highlights from the official schedule include Daniel Lee’s sophomore Burberry show (18 September), a return to the runway for Supriya Lele (18 September, having chosen to show via lookbook in recent seasons), a new round of talent incubator Fashion East (15 September) and a debut from London-based LVMH Prize semi-finalist Aaron Esh. Elsewhere, JW Anderson will continue to show his womenswear collections in the city alongside a special exhibition ‘On Foot’ at London’s Offer Waterman gallery, while Simone Rocha, Roksanda, Molly Goddard, Stefan Cooke, Chopova Lowena and Erdem, will all show on schedule over the weekend.
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2024 (19 – 25 Sept 2023)
In perhaps the most high-profile debut of fashion month, Valentino alum Sabato De Sarno will present his first collection for Gucci on the afternoon of September 22 (he was made creative director of the house in January 2023, following the exit of Alessandro Michele the previous November). Another debut in Milan is Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, where the longtime designer for the house will take over as creative director after the eponymous founder exited the brand earlier this year. ‘In Peter Hawkings the brand has found the perfect creative director,’ said Ford. ‘He is an incredibly talented leader with tremendous industry experience, and his appointment gives me confidence that my commitment to creating fashion products with the highest level of design and quality will continue.’ Hawkings will show his debut collection at 9pm on September 21.
Elsewhere – alongside the usual Milanese houses, among them Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, and more – the week will end with the Camera della Moda Sustainable Fashion Awards at La Scala Theatre on September 24. Just prior, on the afternoon of September 24, Brazil-born, London-based designer Karoline Vitto – an alumnus of Fashion East – will debut on the Milan schedule, showing her body-inclusive designs with the support of Dolce & Gabbana.
Paris Fashion Week S/S 2024 (25 September – October 3, 2023)
Paris Fashion Week will close the month with an eight-day-long schedule featuring appearances from Louis Vuitton, Dior, Chanel, Miu Miu, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Hermès, Valentino and Balenciaga. Eyes will look towards Chloé after the exit of Gabriela Hearst earlier this year, while Francesco Risso of Marni – having shown in New York and Tokyo in the previous two seasons – has chosen to present his latest collection at 51 Rue de l'Université, Karl Lagerfeld’s former private residence in Paris (‘the home of a witness and devotee to the most ephemeral architecture of real illusion that is fashion,’ said Risso in a statement).
Elsewhere, Maison Margiela returns to the schedule, as does Carven, the latter after a five-year hiatus and now led by creative director Louise Trotter (formerly of Lacoste). Mugler is also back on the official schedule, while Peter Do – who previously has shown in New York – will make his Paris debut. Other young labels include Duran Lantink, Kiko Kostadinov and Vaquera, each bringing their distinct energy to the storied week, while Ester Manas – which won the 2023 Andam Special Prize – will take the season off, focussing instead on showing next in March 2024. ‘By avoiding catwalks, we are also underscoring our unwavering commitment to dedicating the time needed to create sustainable collections and products,’ explained co-founders Manas and Balthazar Delepierre. Off-White is also missing from this season’s schedule.
Finally, Chloé and Celine alum Phoebe Philo will also – at some point in September – reveal her first eponymous collection. Whether this will be during Paris Fashion Week, remains to be seen.
Stay tuned for more Wallpaper* coverage from Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2023.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*. Having previously held roles at 10, 10 Men and AnOther magazines, he joined the team in 2022. His work has a particular focus on the moments where fashion and style intersect with other creative disciplines – among them art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and profiling the industry’s leading figures and brands.
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