Italian-Japanese fusion’s a joy at east London’s Osteria Angelina

Angelina in Shoreditch is an original in every sense, having been introducing Londoners to the unexpected joys of Japanese-Italian fusion food since 2019. Now, founders Laura Horta, Joshua Owens-Baigler and Amar Takhar are expanding with a sibling on the City-Spitalfields border that seeks to channel the relaxed spirit of a northern Italian osteria in a warehouse conversion.

Wallpaper* dines at Osteria Angelina, London

The mood: arty warehouse party

Architects Allford Hall Monaghan Morris have retained many of the original Victorian features, not least the 4m-high ceilings. Pretty much everything else on display is the work of Anna Owens Designs, which is not only responsible for the monochrome colour scheme of granite and Dalmata marble but also the restaurant’s bespoke tableware and furniture, from the fabrics selected by Anna Owens to the Italian-made chairs designed by Edizioni. And, in her own way, Owens is responsible for the restaurant itself – she is the mother of Joshua Owens-Baigler.

The food: Japan via Italy

If the idea of Japan-meeting-Italy on the same plate sounds like fusion confusion, then you haven’t eaten at the original Angelina. Executive chef Usman Haider draws on five years of experience overseeing the tasting menus in Dalston’s Angelina, here evolved into an à la carte menu with an emphasis on eight fresh pastas made in a glass-walled corner of the dining room. The other focus is on large cuts of meat and fish cooked over binchotan charcoal; expect the likes of tortelloni with truffle and kombu, followed by skate wing on the bone with sea urchin butter, with perhaps a side order of hamachi sashimi.

Osteria Angelina is located at 1, Nicholls & Clarke Yard, Off Blossom St, London E1 6SH, UK; angelina.london