Lume restaurant review - Milan, Italy
Even in a city that is as manically appreciative of cuisine as Milan is, the arrival of a Michelin-starred chef still generates buzz. More so when said chef is spearheading a restaurant backed by the Filippo Marazzi Foundation, a charitable outfit aimed at realising the potential of Young Turks.
Set in the former Richard Ginori porcelain factory – itself a part of the swish W37 multi-purpose development in Milan’s Naviglio Grande district – Lume makes the mark for its all-white 40-seater dining room designed by Monica Melotti. The sensation of cosy intimacy is reinforced by the fact that tables are spread out over two rooms and an al fresco area.
Light washes in through the central courtyard to accent the restaurant’s centerpiece: a show kitchen which Melotti – fresh off a renovation of Al Capone’s Miami home – has wrapped up in a partially opaque skin cut through with an attractive embroidered pattern.
Here, executive chef Luigi Taglienti has conceived a series of à la carte and tasting menus that are anchored by what he calls innovative cuisine. This translates into veal braised in a sparkling wine sauce and paired with cucumber sorbet, and Ibisco beet whose sweetness is cut by pink grapefruit and tarragon.
And if, after a satisfying dinner, the idea of schlepping home is too much to bear, the restaurant can, unusually, arrange for an overnight stay in one of the W37 apartments upstairs.