Hermès: The relationship between Hermès and Pierre Hardy is an especially blessed one: if Paris’ most quirky shoe designer gives the French maison a decidedly modern, colourful personality, the brand provides him with the best raw materials and artisanship anyone could dream of. It’s a guaranteed recipe for success. And yesterday’s presentation didn’t disappoint. Staged at the very Parisian Théâtre du Chatelet – a classic space of gilded walls and red velvet – it included a little cheeky performance of anonymous models’ legs dancing up and down a flight of stairs as background to a collection composed of ultra wearable sandals made from suede and buttery leather cut to mimic an anchor’s chain. Criss-crossing straps, Metallic H logos, patchworked dayglo suede and simple, charming babouches completed the collection. Of course, sneakers were also present - they’ve always been Hardy’s strong suit -, this time taking on bright shades of yellow, purple and, of course, orange. An Hermès statement through and through.
Ottolinger: Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient like to do things in their own time. Which was made clear by the little goody bags waiting for each show guest in their chairs yesterday: a small flask of CBD oil and a CBD-infused beige lipstick made in collaboration with Swiss brand KannaSwiss (in the middle of a very probing fashion week day, needless to say guests were enthused). The pair’s clothes have the same chill ethos: they’re irresistibly trendy, but not as mindlessly trendy as to negate a personal aesthetic that, at its best, relies on unexpected, extremely un-trendy elements.
It was the case with this collection, in which gingham was worked into draped dresses (trendy), but also into bodycon trousers worn with a strappy bra and sprinkled with colourful flowers (un-trendy - and extremely fun). Crowd members in the front row were already wearing some of the pieces; and who could blame them? The raw-edged knitwear - worn over asymmetrical bias-cut skirts - the deconstructed dresses and the corset-like tops were undeniable eye candy, the kind of clothes that a trend-oriented yet discerning client would go for without blinking. The Swiss designers know their client, and they also know their success lies in their delicate balance and in not taking themselves too seriously. So when Ottolinger says Relax, it’s a good idea to take their advice. Photography: Reto Schmid
Moynat: Creative director Ramesh Nair often looks to the architectural details of Paris in his accessories designs. For spring, he was taken with the idea of artists and craftsman in the city, lining the rooves of their studios with zinc in times gone by, to enhance levels of natural light. Tones of zinc infiltrated Moynat’s industrially-inclined offering, and in line with Nair surveying Paris from a new panoramic angle, the brand’s Réjane bag appears flipped at a new structural slant. Elsewhere its macaroon-shape bag has been crafted in white crocodile and lizard, and, in a nod to Nair’s obsession with keys, a black snakeskin version of its Mini Vanity shape has an innovative closure, with a lock that can only be opened with a thumbprint.
Coperni: Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer left Courrèges less than a year ago to concentrate again on Coperni, the brand they founded together six years ago, and that had been dormant during their stint at the French maison. Back then, they stressed in interviews their interest in wearable technology. That hasn’t changed (as hasn’t changed their passion for simple, well cut wearable clothes). The pair eschewed a traditional show to stage a presentation at the Champs Elysées Apple store, where a crowd gathered to watch a video introducing their philosophy before a few models briefly presented the clothes live.
Among the wearable technology pieces was a wifi leather bag. There was also a bluetooth bow on the waistband of miniskirts. Clothes-wise, the collection combined 50’s inspired ankle-length skinny trousers and tops with body con mini dresses. Tech meets minimalism for thoroughly modern appeal.
Pierre Hardy: The accessories designer is a master when it comes to geometric forms and fine colourful fabrications. For spring, he proposes a range of kaleidoscopic sneakers, sliders and ankle strap stilettos in colour blocked metallic hues. Elsewhere, more minimalist shapes are seen in pointed pumps and slip on mules, and a range of mid-heel sandals in silver, leopard print and powder blue provide sleek yet practical out-on-the-tiles footwear.
Mugler: In only a couple of seasons, Casey Cadwallader has gone from unknown designer to helming one of the buzziest brands in Paris. Mugler has long been one of those Parisian maisons going through highs and lows. After yesterday’s show, it’s riding sky high. No wonder: it’s as if the designer – who actually trained as an architect before cutting his teeth with the likes of Marc Jacobs, Narciso Rodriguez and Acne Studios – had found the perfect recipe for 2020 sexy.
And it turns out to be a concoction of Thierry Mugler-inspired power shoulders (worn by Bella Hadid as she opened the show paired with a sheer corset and butt-lifting tights. And nothing else), colourful ruched bodycon dresses that enhance the curves instead of taming them, skintight capris (yes, capris!) worn with very grown-up satin shirts... but, more than anything, it’s about celebrating diversity. And that’s what Mugler did best. A brilliant casting spanning all sizes, races and gender identifications, including top models and quirky outsiders such as Spanish performance artist Aaliyah Rosales, turned the whole affair from an accomplished collection to a vibrant show that flawlessly harnessed (no pun intended) the zeitgeist. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
