Prada: after a season showing away from its HQ, Prada returned to the Via Fogazzaro with a purple-hued show set-up resembling a blueprint of a building, inspired by the strict grid system of Cartesian coordinates. The brand worked with regular collaborators AMO, fitting transparent cube seats inside square outlines. The chairs were an exclusive recommission of a 1960s design by Danish furniture designer Verner Panton. The plastic of the seating was complemented by the shrinkwrap which was used to line the walls of the show space.
AMI: last season Alexandre Mattiussi imagined a runway set high on the rooftops of a city, but for S/S 2019 he transported guests back to the rolling fields of his rural upbringing. Undulating sheaves of wheat spread across the catwalks, like golden ears lining the Normandy hills. Models strode among the rustling grasses, as if walking in the amber haze of a countryside evening. Photography: Stephane Deroussent. Show produced by OBO.
Maison Margiela Artisanal: for the brand’s debut Artisanal menswear offering, creative director John Galliano invited American artist (and previous collaborator) Tony Matelli to present his series of vanitas sculptures on the runway of the brand’s atelier in Paris. The four Greco-inspired concrete and marble pieces appear as if scattered with fruit, but in fact the limes, watermelons and oranges are cast in bronze and painted as if freshly picked. Read more here
Marni: inside Milan’s cavernous underground parking lot Torre Velasca, Marni’s Francesco Risso had working out on the mind, erecting a retro underground gym runway set. Guests sat upon gym balls coloured in green and black. Inviting and infinitely toning, they bounced in clean contrast to A/W 2018’s scrapyard-esque show seating, made up gasoline cans, vacuum cleaners and bags of compost.
Hermès: The French maison didn’t air its dirty laundry in public, instead it hung out crisp white vests and shirts on washing lines for all to see. The garments, suspended within the walls of the maison’s Paris headquarters, had front rowers fretting about their suitcases of spoiled clothing, from day after day spent at fashion week. Photography: Villa Eugénie
Craig Green: the Boboli Gardens might be a familiar scene for Florence natives, but when it acted as the location of Craig Green’s S/S 2019 menswear show at Pitti Uomo 94, something seemed a little strange. The shadowy shapes of models began to drift into sight in the darkness, with deliberately displaced cloth dividers and glitchy hues, adding to the mind-bending sense of mystery. Photography: Scintilla Design
