Paris Fashion Week A/W 2018 editor’s picks

Fashion / 6 Mar 2018

Models wear a range of textured PVC shirts, coats and outerwear. Most include a rainbow, multicoloured details — **Anrealage:** Kunihiko Morinaga has a way of keeping his public interested in his collections. What started as a bit of a tech gimmick which could have quickly be tired has turned into a continuously evolving trademark. Case in point: yesterday's show was inspired by prisms, and the way they reflect natural light, turning it into different colours depending on the viewer's perspective. This translated into rainbow-like digital prints and textured PVC which almost looked 3D, as well as actual 3D ruffled plastic serving as ornamentation for the otherwise pared-down, very Japanese dresses and shirts. But perhaps the best — and most unexpected — thing about the collection were the woollen jumpers: chunky knits cut in oversized, cozy shapes and woven in neon colours in triangular shapes, easily wearable and infinitely desirable in this week's Paris polar temperatures. We'd love to see more of those — and more colour play — in the next collections. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Model wears a oversized, bright holographic puffer coat. Another wears a transparent plastic dress with sneakers — **Maison Margiela:** John Galliano has developed a fascination for déshabillé glamour on the move, and for A/W 2018 he delved into the idea of dressing in reverse, like pairing a trench coat under a dress or a fisherman’s knit under a clear plastic skirt. Galliano used materials to create the impression of one garment imprinted on another, and took futuristic fabrics from the the brand’s artisanal collection including holographic and flash-sensitive fabrics, crafted into suits and dresses. Perfect for the sub-zero temperatures in Paris, the brand also offered a series of oversized gilets and anoraks with cocooning shoulders and puffy sleeves. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Models wear shiny plastic suits, patterned balaclavas and sport sunglasses — **Marine Serre:** the prevalent idea of what a Parisian girl looks like — haphazard, almost inevitable chic, perfecto biker jackets and a studied negligence of the hair — has in fact little to do with the aesthetic aspirations of the French capital's creative set. And it has been more than proved in the last few seasons, thanks to designers who really resonate with Parisians, including Y/Project's Glenn Martens, Koché, Wanda Nylon and, now more than anyone, Marine Serre. The winner of the latest LVMH Prize stands up for her straightforward sense of what's wearable, without ever sacrificing creativity. It was the case in her yesterday's show, held in the far-flung corners of the 19è arrondissement and attended by the fashion set in bulk (even Michèle Lamy was there). Not hard to understand such a turnout, given the brilliantly put together looks mixing dayglo transparent plastic raincoats, super practical T-shirts and cycling pants and, especially, her flowy dresses patchworked from upcycled silk scarves (her spheric handbags were covered in foulards as well). The young designer clearly understands what the Parisian girl really wants, not only in terms of looks but also of lifestyle. And we can't wait to see more of that. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Stella Luna: black and red kitten heels are seen with metal heels — **Stella Luna:** the footwear brand catered to all climates for A/W 2018. For a warm Indian summer there are soft leather knee-high boots with a short block heel and patent leather sock boots. For night owls, lace up booties with sparkling laces and festive pumps embellished with ruffles or glitter heels are the ultimate footwear options . For an icy winter day (one well noted on this seasons calendar), the collection offers a furry collection of flats and comfortable boots.

Model sits in a velvet bar wearing an oversized checkered suit, with a sporty blue stripe running up both the trouser and blazer — **Racil:** designer Racil Chalhoub presented her debut A/W 2018 Paris presentation at the Bar Hemingway at the Ritz. It was a fitting location as Chalhoub grew up in Paris, and her designs reimagine the famed Le Smoking silhouette. Guests munched on miniature hotdogs and burgers and sipped on fizzy cocktails, as models sported new suit silhouettes in bold primary hues, check and sugary velvet devoré. Silk slip dresses nodded to the glamour of Hollywood starlets like Vivien Leigh and Rita Hayworth.

Models are seen wearing bright orange suits, dresses and gowns — **Haider Ackermann:** out of the smoke appeared girls with punk-ish mullet hairdos wearing strong tailored silhouettes and floating silk dresses. For his A/W 2018 collection, Haider Ackermann chose a palette of muted pink, brown tones and grey, elevated with saturated green lace-up ankle boots and blue tights. Tailored jackets and an orange silk suit were given a fragile touch through the use of subtle floral embroideries, whilst fine ruffles appeared on the collars and sleeves of short sporty dresses. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

**Noir Kei Ninomiya:** for his first fully fledged runway show, held at the Faculté de Pharmacie de Paris (where the Junya Watanabe show had taken place an hour before, the Japanese designer presented a collection rich in experimentation and technical prowess. Sculptural dresses, formed from fronds and bugles of organza and tulle, bobbed down the catwalk, paired with frothy sleeve trench coats, biker jackets and gauzy cropped jackets. Ninomiya, like Watanabe, who also designs under the Comme des Garçons umbrella, shows wonderful proclivity for balancing the avant-garde with the commercial. The collected boasted both a bustle-like knitted dress, alongside a full net skirt or a cropped cape. Adding an ethereality to the collection, Ninomiya’s models walked the runway wearing floral masks and headdresses, formed from tropical blooms. A moment of serenity amongst the breakneck speed of Paris Fashion Week.

Models are all seen in beige jackets with thick, dark grey skirts with glittery grey wigs — **Thom Browne:** why Thom Browne is not yet showing his collections in Paris during couture is still an enigma. The American designer’s handiwork is just as impressive and meticulous — and far more creative — than most of the guest members of the Chambre Syndicale. We had proof again during a show held at the Hôtel de Ville (the designer’s new Parisian venue since last season). This time, it was a homage to…fashion. In what felt very meta, models clad in corseted dresses that could have belonged in the late 1800s posed in a mid-century fashion while, in the background, Madonna sang *Vogue*. It was all typical Browne, from the glacial pace at which the models moved and their 1930s- inspired glittery wigs (we have actually seen a lot of glittery hair this week, a fun trend if not the most sustainable one) to the exclusively grey palette. The catchy 90s tunes, the womanly style of the models (no girls here, this was a truly grown-up affair) and the theatricality of the show made us feel as if we were time-traveling, back to the golden era of fashion shows, when it was about the fun as much as about the product. And yet, nostalgia was somehow out of the equation. It’s just that Thom Browne still lives (and shows his collections) that way. Bless him for that. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Pierre Hardy: features a Parisian apartments surrounded by shoes — **Pierre Hardy:** the footwear extraordinaire presented his latest collection in the splendid rooms of a Parisian apartment. Mirrored blocks lined the wood panelled floor, presenting Hardy’s latest hybrid and ostentatious designs, which included glittering jacquard Western boots, wedged ponyskin mules, chunky hiking boots and a pair of delicate floral jacquard dancing shoes, a hybrid between an ankle boot and a dainty kitten heel. *Photography: Paul Mouginot*

Chaos: iPhone cases stand in a baroque style apartment — **Chaos:** much like the brand’s name suggests, the setting of the presentation projected a tastefully *chaotic* atmosphere combining a baroque-like palette and modern white textured furniture. The luxury tech brand, founded by Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall, made its debut at Paris Fashion Week with a presentation of a number of tech accessories inspired by the collection’s ‘dare devil’ theme. Classic motifs such as a double cherry and a pulsing heart were to be seen embroidered and printed on phone cases and bag charms, as well as letters of the alphabet in a bubble font.

Yohji Yamamoto A/W 2018 features all black outerwear — **Yohji Yamamoto:** the Japanese designer dedicated his A/W 2018 collection to his friend and counterpart Azzedine Alaïa, who passed away at the age of 82 last November. Both powerful visionaries who resisted trends (Alaïa, even presented his collections away from the Paris Fashion Week schedule), Yamamoto’s largely black collection featured hints of Alaïa’s sensual design aesthetic, like leather corsets layered over deconstructed blazers, draped silk dresses and exquisitely tailored coats which skimmed the body. Elsewhere, outerwear was constructed from layer upon layer of fabric, finely swathing the body in beautiful folds of fabric. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Model wears black tailored trousers and a black puffer coat, that wraps around the body. — **Oyuna:** for A/W 2018 Oyuna was inspired by the simplicity and unexpected constructions of an envelope. The shape of this timeless object was seen in the composition of the garments, and its closing function formed the base for several playful closure details on outerwear. Apart from black, the collection offered a palette of greyish army green, blueberry blue, and tones of merlot. Oyuna’s signature puff design was transformed in knitted cashmere scarf, which also can be worn as a cape and features stitches in the form of an envelope. We’d happily find every piece in our mailbox.

Ann Demeulemeester: features swathes of black leather belts — **Ann Demeulemeester:** there was a dark gothicisim to creative director Sébastien Meunier’s A/W 2018 collection for the Belgian house. Constructed in a colour palette of black and white, this was an offering of draped overcoats, capes and blouses, paired with skinny trousers and full leather skirts, all accessorised with thigh-high leather boots and swashbuckling elbow length gloves. Part pirate part fetish, pieces were paired with swathes of leather belts, which unbuckled with a provocative sense of the undone. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Carven A/W 2018: Models wear deconstructed outerwear with exposed stitching — **Carven:** for his second runway collection at the French house, Serge Ruffieux was inspired by today’s concept of luxury dressing, and the idea of mixing different genres and ideas. This culminated in a pretty and versatile collection of wearable pieces, from ruched leather dresses with floral silk sleeves, parkas with tropical motifs, quilted jackets and tweed trousers suits. There were plaids and checks, frayed hems and a good helping of floral print, pieces to be mixed and matched by the imaginative Carven woman. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Landscape image of the interior of Le Bon Marché, covered in white tiles with white umbrellas, white seating and white tables — **Le Bon Marché:** the department store in Zola’s 1883 novel *The Ladies Paradise*, was modelled on the opulent architecture and exquisite goods found at Le Bon Marché. This week the renowned store launched ‘Let’s Go Logo!’ an exhibition featuring 130 exclusive logo themed capsule collections from brands including Miu Miu and Fendi, guaranteed to stir up as much exaltation as the scenes in Zola’s novel. The space includes a dedicated floor curated by Off-White, lined with white tiles and populated with branded umbrella and classic brasserie seating.

Atlein A/W 2018: Models wear skinny blue wetsuit assembles — **Atlein:** Antonin Tron presented his latest Atlein collection at the Institut du Monde Arabe, one inspired by a description of the sea in William Finnegan’s '*Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life'* (2015). Surfing tropes seeped into his A/W 2018 offering, which featured skinny wetsuit trousers paired with chunky knitwear and blazers. Garments fluidly ruched and draped around the body, like body hugging elasticated dresses and blouses, paired with city-chic double lapel overcoats, cable knit dresses and cropped sweaters. Wearable, functional and wave-making for autumn. *Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans*

Black snake skin bag, purse and shoes with red and white stripe — **Tomasini**: designer Emmanuel Tomasini added footwear to his bag label for A/W 2018, a collection brimming with graphic details, smatterings of mosaic and animal print. A shoulder bag featured panels of striped collegiate scarf silk, while a pair of elegant black stilettos came in sleek black snakeskin.

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood: 'God, how long have we known each other! I want to pay homage to you as my collaborator, my friend and partner, my teacher and of course my muse'. Thus read Andreas Kronthaler's love letter to Vivienne Westwood, which was at the inception of the sartorial love letter that was his latest collection for the brand. In a show at the Pavillon Cambon peppered with celebrities — we have seen quite a lot of Selah Marley in Paris this season, but not so much of Die Antwoord's Yolandi and Ninja — the German designer reworked some of Dame Viv's highlights through the decades, starting with the 70s Teddy Boys suits and swiftly moving on to punk icons, mini crinis, 90s exaggerated shapes and 2000s rainbow warrior uniforms. And yet there was very little nostalgia here. As a matter of fact, it was the brand's most modern show in a while. Artfully mixed among the unmistakeably Vivienne pieces were multiple winks to everything that defines the current zeitgeist, from the modest dressing to the intersectional pieces, the queer vibes and the ultra diverse casting (a true example of inclusivity). Sitting on the front row was even Rose McGowan, the notorious co-starter of the #MeToo movement. Her presence tied the show together, and left us wondering whether #TimesUp will be the designer's next activism project... Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood