Paris Fashion Week A/W 2018 editor’s picks

Paris Fashion Week A/W 2018 editor’s picks

Models wear a range of textured PVC shirts, coats and outerwear. Most include a rainbow, multicoloured details

Anrealage: Kunihiko Morinaga has a way of keeping his public interested in his collections. What started as a bit of a tech gimmick which could have quickly be tired has turned into a continuously evolving trademark. Case in point: yesterday’s show was inspired by prisms, and the way they reflect natural light, turning it into different colours depending on the viewer’s perspective. This translated into rainbow-like digital prints and textured PVC which almost looked 3D, as well as actual 3D ruffled plastic serving as ornamentation for the otherwise pared-down, very Japanese dresses and shirts. But perhaps the best — and most unexpected — thing about the collection were the woollen jumpers: chunky knits cut in oversized, cozy shapes and woven in neon colours in triangular shapes, easily wearable and infinitely desirable in this week’s Paris polar temperatures. We’d love to see more of those — and more colour play — in the next collections. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Model wears a oversized, bright holographic puffer coat. Another wears a transparent plastic dress with sneakers

Maison Margiela: John Galliano has developed a fascination for déshabillé glamour on the move, and for A/W 2018 he delved into the idea of dressing in reverse, like pairing a trench coat under a dress or a fisherman’s knit under a clear plastic skirt. Galliano used materials to create the impression of one garment imprinted on another, and took futuristic fabrics from the the brand’s artisanal collection including holographic and flash-sensitive fabrics, crafted into suits and dresses. Perfect for the sub-zero temperatures in Paris, the brand also offered a series of oversized gilets and anoraks with cocooning shoulders and puffy sleeves. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Maison Margiela
Models wear shiny plastic suits, patterned balaclavas and sport sunglasses

Marine Serre: the prevalent idea of what a Parisian girl looks like — haphazard, almost inevitable chic, perfecto biker jackets and a studied negligence of the hair — has in fact little to do with the aesthetic aspirations of the French capital’s creative set. And it has been more than proved in the last few seasons, thanks to designers who really resonate with Parisians, including Y/Project’s Glenn Martens, Koché, Wanda Nylon and, now more than anyone, Marine Serre. The winner of the latest LVMH Prize stands up for her straightforward sense of what’s wearable, without ever sacrificing creativity. It was the case in her yesterday’s show, held in the far-flung corners of the 19è arrondissement and attended by the fashion set in bulk (even Michèle Lamy was there). Not hard to understand such a turnout, given the brilliantly put together looks mixing dayglo transparent plastic raincoats, super practical T-shirts and cycling pants and, especially, her flowy dresses patchworked from upcycled silk scarves (her spheric handbags were covered in foulards as well). The young designer clearly understands what the Parisian girl really wants, not only in terms of looks but also of lifestyle. And we can’t wait to see more of that. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Marine Serre

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