Eckhaus Latta: Hair was left elegantly under-styled at Eckhaus Latta, allowing the innovative face paint design to shine through. Colourful dashes were dabbed across cheeks, chins and brows with an uncomfortable freneticism; one part futuristic disease, one part unfinished pointillism painting. Amid the backdrop of a troubled USA, the clashing, troublesome collection (which paired Mad Max shoulder pads with ugly-beautiful prints) helped to prove that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta do cult-cool Americana like few else. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Rick Owens: There was a sense of ceremony in Paris with makeshift architectural headresses made from sweatshirt sleeves draped over bent wire frames. In terms of make-up, things were just as bold and visionary. Chalky white faces recalled ancient rituals. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ashish: This season, Ashish boldy opted for Mexican wrestling mask-inspired make-up, a tongue-in-glittering-cheek reference to Donald Trump and his infamous wall. Created by part-time face-painter turned beauty doyenne Isamaya French, the graphic make-up design broke barriers, as fashion show slipped into a theatrical costume party (in a good way). Hair, courtesy of Ali Pirzadeh, was pulled taught, as if under skull-hugging mask hats, or back-combed and tinted halloween green. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Pringle of Scotland: Faces were kept almost bare, with apricot lips and a light touch of peach blush at Pringle’s London show, while wet-look hair drew the eye. Tousled into low-hanging ponytails, naturally wavy locks were sprayed liberally, offering caught-in-the-rain realness. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Gareth Pugh: The designer’s army of outsiders stalked the runway in unsettling military garb, to a frenetic, terrifying soundtrack. The make-up design followed (highly structured) suit. Eyes were covered in what looked like cockroach shells sprouting spindly eyelash legs. Brows were made to look hooded with sweeps of dark green, while lips were coated in poison blue. It was a dangerous, statement making affair. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Versus: Versace’s naughtier cousin Versus continued the bold eye trend it employed last season. Sweeps of exciting pigment were applied from the inner corner of the eye, extending to the hairline. The rest of the face was kept clean, so as to emphasise these daring pops of colour. Where last season hair was unfussy and minimal, here, it exploded in hand-tousled rat tails and shaggy bobs. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
