The best heavy eyes, colour blasts and messy crops of the A/W 2017 women’s shows
This season’s beauty trends were two-faced, as designers chose all or nothing looks when it came to hair and make-up. Bold, political statements came courtesy of Ashish, Rick Owens and Gareth Pugh; while Hermés, Delpozo and Pringle of Scotland applied little more than lip balm and mascara. Whether you favour air-brushed beauty or statement-making face paint, explore our tale of two pretty cities here...
Eckhaus Latta: Hair was left elegantly under-styled at Eckhaus Latta, allowing the innovative face paint design to shine through. Colourful dashes were dabbed across cheeks, chins and brows with an uncomfortable freneticism; one part futuristic disease, one part unfinished pointillism painting. Amid the backdrop of a troubled USA, the clashing, troublesome collection (which paired Mad Max shoulder pads with ugly-beautiful prints) helped to prove that Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta do cult-cool Americana like few else. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Rick Owens: There was a sense of ceremony in Paris with makeshift architectural headresses made from sweatshirt sleeves draped over bent wire frames. In terms of make-up, things were just as bold and visionary. Chalky white faces recalled ancient rituals. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ashish: This season, Ashish boldy opted for Mexican wrestling mask-inspired make-up, a tongue-in-glittering-cheek reference to Donald Trump and his infamous wall. Created by part-time face-painter turned beauty doyenne Isamaya French, the graphic make-up design broke barriers, as fashion show slipped into a theatrical costume party (in a good way). Hair, courtesy of Ali Pirzadeh, was pulled taught, as if under skull-hugging mask hats, or back-combed and tinted halloween green. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Pringle of Scotland: Faces were kept almost bare, with apricot lips and a light touch of peach blush at Pringle’s London show, while wet-look hair drew the eye. Tousled into low-hanging ponytails, naturally wavy locks were sprayed liberally, offering caught-in-the-rain realness. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Gareth Pugh: The designer’s army of outsiders stalked the runway in unsettling military garb, to a frenetic, terrifying soundtrack. The make-up design followed (highly structured) suit. Eyes were covered in what looked like cockroach shells sprouting spindly eyelash legs. Brows were made to look hooded with sweeps of dark green, while lips were coated in poison blue. It was a dangerous, statement making affair. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Versus: Versace’s naughtier cousin Versus continued the bold eye trend it employed last season. Sweeps of exciting pigment were applied from the inner corner of the eye, extending to the hairline. The rest of the face was kept clean, so as to emphasise these daring pops of colour. Where last season hair was unfussy and minimal, here, it exploded in hand-tousled rat tails and shaggy bobs. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Alberta Ferretti: No one blended a bold eye this season quite like Alberta Ferretti. Heavily charcoaled eyes were lightened by pockets of rusty colours at the centre of the lid, forming a wearable yet edgy look. Under the eyes, pale, dusty highlight contrasted the heavy-handed shadows. Hair was similarly easy to wear, swept into carefree, low buns. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Emilio Pucci: Creative director Massimo Giorgetti played to Emilio Pucci’s storied strengths this season, featuring fearless prints and stretchy jersey. The playful runway was topped off by retro boy-bob haircuts and vibrant neon lashes. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Francesco Scognamiglio: Metallic highight was taken above the eyes in a sparkling display from Francesco Scognamiglio. Pastel shades complemented the summery flowing fashion present, while bringing vintage touille firmly up to date. Hair was kept refreshingly simple, pulled back, middle parted, framing the heavily highlighted face. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Thom Browne: Cool, calm and collected as ever in his collection, Browne let loose a little in terms of make-up. Fun, fabric lips were cut out in the shape of a perfect pout and stuck on it natty black and white check patterns that matched the tailoring. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Arthur Arbesser: Tightly curled Marcel waves framed the pale faces of this season’s Arbesser girl, save for the punch of plum lipstick (which nods to last season’s industry-wide obsession with bold lip colours). Together with the op art-inspired clothing, and the functioning (freezing) army depo location, the tableau referenced post-wartime Berlin with aplomb. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Area NYC: Fur, acrylic nails and heart-shaped hoops might spell an error in beauty judgement. Not for Area. The young, New York-based label turned to 90s popstars for its clean make-up aesthetic, somehow making glittering block-eyeshadows look fresh and contemporary. Paired with the model’s enviable lengths of glossy, untouched hair, they have us reaching for our scooped-out plastic glitter palettes and synthetic straighteners. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Delpozo: Slicked back hair was pulled taught under swimming cap-esque headgear, rounding off Josep Font’s architectural display. Make-up remained minimal, so as to not distract from the structural, highly textured collection. The matte, amber eye shadow was of particular note, however, kept close to the eye line. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Junya Watanabe: Head-props and hair-hats from master Japanese hairstylist Tomihiro Kono topped off a punk-perfect showcase from Junya Watanabe. The neck-craning affair also saw smokey eyes get blown up, with punky spidery lashes in smouldering shades of burnt orange and pollution green
Hermès: The house often delivers a softer, subtler approach to the current make-up trends. This season was no different. It continued to apply the soft liner and pulled-back hair looks that they tested last season, this time adding a slightly bolder, smokier eye, and a gently blushing cheek. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Maison Margiela: John Galliano’s relentless energy and eccentricity was felt in his wonderfully weird styling this season. On some girls, neon lashes made a welcome return, this time paired with equally vibrant shadows. On others, dead-white paint on eyelids was also drawn across the girl’s torsos in faux skintight t-shirts. Up top, sinewy feathers and colourful lengths of string were tied into hair in anarchic deadlocks.