Revisit Celine Homme S/S 2023 in this Hedi Slimane-directed short film
In June, Hedi Slimane returned to Paris’ Palais de Tokyo – having shown a Dior Homme collection there two decades prior – to show his S/S 2023 menswear collection for Celine. A new film by the designer captures the frenzy around the road-blocking show
Released today, a new short film by Hedi Slimane revisits the designer’s S/S 2023 Celine Homme collection, held this past June at Palais de Tokyo in Paris. Titled ‘Dysfunctional Bauhaus’, the much-anticipated show marked Slimane’s return to the physical runway and closed out men’s fashion month for the season.
The location, first constructed in 1937 for the Paris International Exhibition, was one of particular resonance for Slimane. 20 years prior, while the space was still being transformed into the contemporary art gallery it is today, the French designer showed his A/W 2002 collection for Dior Homme among the unfinished space (Slimane was the house’s menswear creative director at the time; attendees, including the late Karl Lagerfeld and Pierre Bergé, watched on in rooms mid-construction). As such, Slimane’s return last month also coincided with 20 years of the Palais de Toyko, which was completed not long afterwards. ‘Hedi always had a fascination for its art deco monumental architecture,’ read the collection’s accompanying notes. ‘Hedi wanted to pay tribute to the institution and remember this moment in his menswear reform.’
The short film provides an alternative look at the S/S 2023 menswear show, which took place in one of the wings which run alongside the gallery’s main forecourt. On the evening, a large crowd had gathered outside the venue, hoping to catch a glimpse of some of the show’s many high-profile attendees – notably Lisa from South Korean pop group Blackpink (who has previously starred one of Slimane’s collection films) and fellow K-pop star V of BTS, who were joined by actors Eddie Redmayne, Park B-gum and Thomas Brodie Sangster at the show. In flickering black and white footage, Slimane captures the frenzied reaction to each star’s arrival, the crowd’s screams interspersed with the short’s soundtrack by upcoming New York band Gustaf (the same original composition which accompanied the show itself).
Other footage captures the show’s golden set, designed by Slimane himself and reminiscent of a blown-up Alexander Calder sculpture, as well as the S/S 2023 Celine Homme collection both on the runway and in a series of moving portraits of the various models. ‘An unrelenting aesthetic vision that is defined by the fusion of the high-luxury of the Celine atelier and a rebellious, rock and roll sensibility,’ we said of the collection at the time. ‘A defiant return to Slimane’s roots… [riffing] on his house signatures while opening up new pathways of vision’.
Watch the S/S 2023 menswear film below.
INFORMATION
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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