Prada A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s
Miuccia Prada looks to the iconography of pop-horror films for autumn
Mood board: The autumn/winter 2019 menswear shows are happening against a backdrop of political and social dissent; cities around the world are full of anger and violence. The clothes we are seeing now will be worn in a future we cannot predict. Backstage Miuccia Prada noted how it felt natural to look to horror movies. The camp of Frankenstein and The Rocky Horror Picture Show were influences. ‘I became interested in the idea of Frankenstein’s creature being this monster but with a big heart, who just wants love.’ Graphic prints borrowing from the iconography of pop-horror films featured on shirts. Multiple belts were tied around the waist, cinching in jackets or resting on bare flesh. High-waist trousers had a wide break at leg; shoes peeping from beneath revealed monster’s teeth soles. Standout were the cable knit jumpers in mohair with brightly coloured faux fur shoulders worn with fuzzy trapper hats. They had the perversity and performance that Prada does so well.
Scene setting: OMA created a theatrical, tactile terrain inside the large cavernous concrete Fondazione Prada. With its bright orange beams and imposing curved pillars, the walls and floors were clad in black sound proofing pyramid foam. Prada is all about the duality of meaning; the lie behind the truth. The surprise here is that the spiky seating was in fact soft to the touch; the firm sponge perhaps a metaphor for comfort and danger. The middle of the space was filled with globular light bulbs with bright, spiral filaments which glowered gently before the show began. Models walked on a slim, industrial iron catwalk, which ran through the middle of the spongy wonderland. The sound of their feet crashing down on the metal added a definite crunch to the proceedings.
Sound bite: A collection that looks to the utopian ideals of sci-fi and their ultimate, unruly consequences may turn out to be prescient. ‘Against a world that is difficult, dangerous and violent, with everybody getting so angry, the attention to simple humanity is what I’m interested in,’ Prada said. ‘I tried to translate that in a way that was funny, more ironic.’ §