The Wilke is LA’s answer to the British pub

In the quaint Brentwood Village enclave of Los Angeles, chef and restaurateur Dana Slatkin has breathed new life into a 1954 building by unsung modernist architect Alfred T. Wilkes, for whom the late Frank Gehry worked as a draftsman at the beginning of his career. The elegant Streamline Moderne-style property now houses a steakhouse and bar with serious bite.

Wallpaper* dines at The Wilkes, Los Angeles

The mood: understated elegance meets cosy pub

Slatkin envisioned a British tavern with upscale elements, for which she enlisted the transatlantic firm Fettle, recently behind Bar Issi in Palm Springs and Cicchetti Piccadilly in London. Past a stained-glass door and a wood-panelled vestibule, guests are then ushered into the Rossi marble bar, featuring a view of the wine cellar and a discreetly placed television for game nights. The bijou main dining area features a mohair acoustic ceiling, and the side ‘hearth room,’ which boasts a wood-burning fireplace and a fabric ceiling, is dotted with vintage flea market finds, from artwork to lighting.

The food: crave-worthy comfort fare

Chef Brian Rigsby’s hearty specialities include a decadent roast rack of lamb with peas, Latke-coated chicken schnitzel with dill crème fraiche and apple compote, and of course, fish and chips with pub fries. Pair the small loaf of molasses bread – a recipe from chef Rigsby’s grandmother, made by the neighbouring Clark Street bakery – with the mussels in white wine and leeks, or the steak tartare mixed with quail egg and sunchokes. If you have room, the artful lemon meringue pie is daintily served in an éclair shape, a satisfying ending from pastry chef Yesenia Cruz. Don’t leave before taking a look at the martini selection in the ‘Liquid Library’ menu; it keeps a steady stream of regulars coming back every week.

The Wilkes is located at 148 S. Barrington Drive, Brentwood, CA 90049, United States.