As Omakase continues its international ascent, Taiwan’s revered two-Michelin-starred Sushi Amamoto lands in London. The Taipei eatery, helmed by the namesake Japanese chef Shogo Amamoto, has a reputation for its impossibility to score a table, with year-long waitlists that even Michelin inspectors have battled. Perhaps the Mayfair spot, taking over the former Taku, offers increased odds of a seat at the counter, although only time will tell.
From start to finish, it’s a holistically orchestrated culinary experience, where delicate craft and intuitive balance take centre stage. And despite the serious and intimidating craft and price tag, the environment is a welcoming one. ‘Being from Fukuoka, my approach differs from the more formal atmosphere often associated with Tokyo sushi counters,’ explains chef Amamoto.
Wallpaper* dines at Sushi Amamoto, London
The mood: harmonious artistry
With capacity for 16 diners, all seated at the long oak wood counter, the Omakase experience occurs in one 18+ course sitting, as much an intimate performance as it is a meal. There is something of a warm-up to the culinary event, tatami mats placed down for phones, sake and sparkling tea poured by attentive waiters amid hushed chatter. Omakase translates to ‘I leave it up to you,’ and the chef’s presence is central to the affair by design. Amamoto is a protagonist who works with precision and swift movement, regularly changing places behind the counter for the benefit of his audience.
The space, materials and tableware all work in harmony to cultivate a carefully orchestrated atmosphere. The interior is subtle, with slate and wood walls, closed in by Noren curtains, windowless and quiet. Different ceramics are used for each course, from plinths to rough-edged slates. ‘Tableware is not just a decoration; it is essentially part of the dish,’ says Amamoto; ‘The vessel is the stage on which the sushi performs.’ ‘Delicate fish may rest on restrained, quiet plates, while richer cuts require a stronger visual presence.’ The markings of the sushi plates, which remain on the counter throughout the meal, carry the markings of Shogo’s region, or ‘country’, within Japan. Cats are used as chopstick rests because ‘Chef is a cat man,’ remarks the maître d’.
The food: ritual of sushi and sashimi
Amamoto, who trained for 17 years before opening his first restaurant, is known for edomae-style sushi. The tradition has its roots in Japan’s Edo period, where techniques such as curing and marinating were used to preserve ingredients and bring out single flavours. ‘The essence of Edomae sushi lies in elevating each ingredient to its most beautiful state through understanding and restraint,’ the chef adds. For each course, often just a fleeting bite, the balance of flavours shifts, the rice temperature and seasoning evolve, with subtly favoured over extravagance.
This is a craft, and like any craft, it is shaped and made by hand. Each piece of sushi is prepared in front of the diner, Amamoto’s hands moulding the rice with the swift movements of a master, painted with a touch of wasabi and brushed delicately with soy sauce – infused with saki, bonito and Konbu. For one course, he spins a oshizushihako press box with focus and flair, holding the result aloft – moulded rice encased with a thick cut slab of orange trout. Eating with your hands is encouraged – and quickly – for the longer the sushi is left, its optimal condition – a harmony of taste, texture, and temperature – spoils.
Fresh fish of the highest calibre guides the menu, taking the form of sashimi, tempura, and nigiri, the sequence of dishes carefully considered for balance. Pickled daikon acts as a palette cleaner between courses. Chef Amamoto has adapted his menu for the London location to maintain a consistent quality of ingredients and capture a sense of place, with British discoveries such as trout and scallops absorbed into the offerings. Signature dishes include the mochi, a crisp savoury rice cake with caviar that sings of the sea, eaten in a sheet of nori like a taco. As is customary, a sweet and spongy Tamago marks the approaching end of the meal before dessert, red bean curd and ice cream sandwich, a lemon marshmallow, and a chocolate sandwich topped with miso. The day’s ingredients, the temperature, the rhythm of the room, and even the guest’s presence at the counter, all sway the food on the plate.
Sushi Amamoto is located at Ground Floor, 36 Albemarle St, London W1S 4JE, UK