Restaurants in New York seem to be getting smaller, more intimate and increasingly exclusive by the day – a trend that aligns perfectly with omakase. This ever-more fashionable Japanese dining style centres around the curation of a personalised, multi-course meal based on the freshest seasonal ingredients. Omakase differs from kaiseki in its more direct interaction with the chef, who typically talks guests through each dish and its ingredients as it is served. These intimate experiences can span up to 22 bite-sized courses, prepared and presented by the chefs directly at the counter for as many as 20 diners, or as few as just six
Japanese cuisine first gained widespread favour in the US in the early 1980s, amid an economic boom and a growing cultural curiosity. Today, a renewed fascination with Japan as a travel destination – fuelled by a weak yen and a post-pandemic appetite for culture – is filtering back into American cities, in a manner as decadent as it was 40 years ago. As evidence, a wave of omakase-style restaurants has opened across New York City in recent years, each offering a highly stylised gastronomic experience within carefully crafted interiors that elevate the meal. Here are six of our favourites, leading the charge in both cuisine and design.
Bar Miller
Designed by Polonsky & Friends, this Michelin-star spot in Alphabet City is enveloped in burl wood veneer panels and colours chosen to resemble bird feathers. Bar Miller’s menu borrows from traditional sushi craft, but isn’t strictly Japanese, so the interiors intentionally steer away from tropes that might be deemed misleading. Instead, deep blue-green Avocatus stone forms the bar counter, tonally matching a trio of panels featuring a custom wallpaper by artist Hollie M Kelley that depicts the plumage of an eastern rosella bird. A custom ceiling pendant resembling a string of beads by Pablo Bolumar hangs overhead, illuminating the dutifully prepared dishes local seafood and produce—to be enjoyed over 15 courses with sakes from a selection of Japan and Brooklyn-based breweries, and an orange-forward wine list.
Bar Miller is located at 620-622 E 6th St, New York, NY 10009
Enso
Japanese minimalist design is fully embraced at Enso in Williamsburg, where the interiors offer a contemporary take on classic Kyoto wabi-sabi design. In the 10-seat omakase room, a 20-foot counter is made from a single plank of Italian sapele, while the sushi bar ceiling is crafted from wood sourced directly from Japan. Chef and owner Nick Wang, who designed the space himself, also created an additional lounge space that offers a 12-course menu for walk-ins as well as reservations, and a garden with a retractable wood ceiling, Japanese maple trees and a fountain. Seasonal floral installations by Brooklyn-based artists help to bring the space to life, while the fish delivered straight from Japan is accompanied by either sake, whiskey or wine pairings, depending on guest preference.
Enso is located at 117 Berry St, Brooklyn, NY 11249
Frevo
A contemporary art gallery fronts this West Village gem, which invites diners back through a pivoting door into a secret dining room. Although Frevo has been around since 2019, a recent renovation by Rockwell Group refreshed the interiors and kickstarted a new chapter. Dark walls and ceilings direct attention to the softly illuminated counter, which runs almost the full length of the narrow space, which accommodates 24 covers in total. The Michelin-starred establishment follows the omakase tradition in terms of service style, but the highly colourful menu created by Brazilian chef Franco Sampogna isn’t confined to a particular cuisine. Instead, dishes incorporate ingredients like coconut, pineapple and a wide variety of international spices – the curried carrots with almond sorbet, and a zesty jalapeno gazpacho are standouts. But there are plenty of nods to Japanese flavours too, such as the wasabi ice cream that accompanies a lighter-than-air chocolate mousse, and, of course, the fresh sushi.
Frevo is located at 48 W 8th St, New York, NY 10011
Koju
Tucked at the back of the Ace Hotel Brooklyn lobby, Koju offers a 14-course seasonal tasting menu led by Chef Kevin Garrison, served to the sounds of a curated Japanese vinyl record collection. The plant-filled interiors by Studio Tre blend exposed concrete elements – including breezeblocks with circular holes – with traditional Japanese materials such as sudare woven bamboo blinds and shibori indigo-dyed cushion covers. In addition to the counter seating, which forms a U-shape around the kitchen area, small clusters of lounge chairs and tables along the perimeter provide guests comfy seats from which to enjoy welcome cocktails or sake before embarking on their dining experience.
Kuju is located at 252 Schermerhorn St, Brooklyn, NY 11217
Ikigai
An atmospheric wood-lined interior creates a cosy setting for Ikigai, which translates as 'the secret to a joyful life.' Hidden behind an unassuming door in Fort Greene, this not-for-profit restaurant’s proceeds go toward fighting food insecurity – helping Rescuing Leftover Cuisine save over 575,000 lbs of food to date. The interiors designed by Scott Kester feature a sweeping counter that curves around the compact open kitchen, accompanied by 12 seats upholstered in forest green fabric, and a shelf below that encourages guests to leave their cell phones and be present for the meal. Behind the prep area are a series of backlit timber panels, charred using the shou sugi ban technique, which continue onto the ceiling in a radial pattern. The menu is prepared by Chef Rafal Maslankiewicz to blend Japanese-sourced fish with local New York farmers' market produce, all of which is plated on delicate ceramics.
Ikigai is located at 87 Lafayette Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11217
Mekumi
A celebrated restaurant from Japan’s Ishikawa Prefecture recently opened a location in Hudson Square, under the direction of chef Hajime Kumabe who worked under the renowned Takayoshi Yamaguchi at the original location. At Sushidokoro Mekumi, diners pass through two doorways to reach a quiet eight-seat dining space, where walls are washed with deep blue “Kanazawa” plaster that contrasts the light hinoki wood counter. Designed by Suzumori Architecture, the space also features dark granite flooring, while custom artisan-crafted tableware adds flourishes. Seasonal Ishikawa fish and rare sasahigure rice are highlights on the menu, supported by various textures and umami flavours to bring out their delicacy.
Mekumi is located at 70 Charlton Street in Hudson Square, New York, NY 10014