Simpson’s in the Strand makes a majestic return

Revered restaurateur Jeremy King, whose era-defining London hotspots have included Le Caprice, The Ivy and The Wolseley, has recently launched his most ambitious undertaking to date, a bold reimagining of storied dining institution Simpson’s in the Strand, which closed in 2020.

Check mate: Simpson’s in the Strand, London

Founded in 1828 as a cigar-smoking coffee room, in 1848 it became Simpson’s Tavern and Divan, introducing the ritual of silver trolley service and table carving. By the late 19th century, it had evolved into both a bastion of British dining and a cultural nexus for those from the worlds of theatre, literature and politics. At the turn of the 20th century, it was acquired by the Savoy Hotel and, although the original building was demolished during the Strand widening scheme, its legacy was absorbed into the Savoy’s expansion, where it remains today.

‘I feel a responsibility to protect its character,’ says King. Long aware of Simpson’s cultural weight, he recalls ‘falling in love with it more than 40 years ago’. After securing ownership in 2022, King brought in Studio Shayne Brady, continuing a longstanding collaboration that includes recent openings The Park in Bayswater and Arlington in St James.

Shayne Brady describes Simpson’s as balancing ‘the soul of a theatre with the ritual of a grand dining room’. Rather than freezing the Grade II-listed building in time, the London-based studio’s approach instead layers a palimpsest of Victorian, Edwardian and art deco references into a contemporary dining destination that’s in touch with its heritage.

Central to the process was a line that King shared with Brady early on: ‘What would Simpson’s look like today if every custodian had treated it with care?’ It became a guiding principle. Treating heritage not as an architectural detail, but as an emotional memory, the studio played with storytelling rather than pure replication, while encouraging material authenticity. Timber panelling was revitalised, chandeliers were relamped and fireplaces reinstated.

Historic artworks remain, while new commissions, such as Michael May’s Four Seasons, were introduced in a considered dialogue with the building’s history.

Beyond the entrance, defined by sepia murals of chess players (the restaurant was once a home for international tournaments), arches and faux-marble columns, Simpson’s unfolds gradually across two restaurants, two bars and a ballroom. Each is imbued with its own unique undercurrent of theatricality that ensures each venue has a singular identity, while executive chef David Stevens’ modern take on the quintessential English menu unites the offering.

All-day dining room Grand Divan sports distinctive marquetry, custom-designed, Edwardian-inspired leather chairs, and sensitively reworked pew-like banquettes, which emanate a dramatic, darkly-hued atmosphere. Brady describes it as ‘the emotional heart of the space’, where dishes include Devonshire beef ribs, slow-roasted overnight and carved from restored original trolleys, as well as grilled Barnsley chops, steak and kidney pudding, and railway mutton curry.

A chequered board stair runner, detailed with chess piece motifs, leads to the first floor where Romano’s offers a lighter interpretation of brasserie dining amid a backdrop of green leather banquettes, filigree moulding, expansive windows and striking columns. Also on the first floor, the art deco-inspired Simpson’s Bar adopts a more intimate mood. Rich upholstery and archival detailing frame a fireplace, above which hangs a caricature of the Russian-born chess champion Vera Menchik by US illustrator John Mattos, while a bar lit by counter lamps serves classically-inclined cocktails centred on British spirits and sparkling wines.

On the lower ground floor, late-night bar Nellie’s Tavern introduces a more decadent register. ‘Jeremy let me work some magic with a carte blanche approach,’ says Brady. Oxblood panelling, red velvet and animal prints define the space, where a specially commissioned portrait of renowned operatic soprano Nellie Melba hangs alongside that of her lover, the Duke of Orléans, who gives his name to a bourbon-based cocktail, infused with notes of dry sherry and black walnut.

For all its stately presence, Simpson’s is defined by the choreography and spontaneity that sustained it for centuries. Observes Brady, ‘It’s a place of occasion that never feels stiff – here there is theatricality, but there is also comfort, history and life.’

Simpson’s in the Strand is located at 100 Strand, London WC2R 0EZ, United Kingdom

A version of this story appears in the May 2026 Design Issue of Wallpaper*, available on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News + now. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today