In the historic London hall where Vivienne Westwood made her debut, Idalia dishes up fare that's dressed to impress

The first opening in the Olympia's £1.3 billion regeneration brings food, design and cultural history back under one roof

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idalia pilar hall london
(Image credit: Courtesy of Idalia)

Olympia has always been more than an exhibition centre. The Victorian venue hosted one of Britain’s earliest film screenings, and its Pillar Hall was transformed into a catwalk for London Fashion Week. Vivienne Westwood staged her debut collection, Pirate, here in 1981, while the west London venue also played host to gigs by Jimi Hendrix and Pink Floyd. After five years of redevelopment, restaurateur Des Gunewardena (the co-founder and former CEO of D&D London) has brought the 30,000 sq ft hall back to life with Idalia, the first hospitality opening in Olympia’s £1.3 billion regeneration.

Wallpaper* dines at Idalia, London

The mood: Country house rebel

idalia pilar hall london

(Image credit: Photo by Billy Barraclough)

Robert Angell Design International has taken an 1880s space flanked by eight Corinthian columns and given it a contemporary twist. ‘We painted the ceiling with a patchwork of gold and cream abstract patterns that rebel against how a highly moulded ceiling should be decorated,’ Angell says. ‘It goes against tradition, much like the fashion designers and bands that performed here.’

Columns are draped with climbing plants, bold upholstery fabrics echo art and fashion and banquette seating is tailored with flowing and geometric shapes.

idalia pilar hall london

(Image credit: Courtesy of Pepperbird)

idalia pilar hall london

(Image credit: Photo by Thomas Alexander)

At the centre, an oval bar is crowned with translucent orange panels that bathe the room in a warm glow that Angell compares to ‘that punkish element of standing out amongst the crowd.’ Gold mirrors reflect the light throughout, while an oversized fireplace punctuates the far end of the room, bringing flames and theatre to a space conceived as a modern country house.

idalia pilar hall london

(Image credit: Photo by Thomas Alexander)

The food: Dressed to impress

idalia pilar hall london

(Image credit: Courtesy of Idalia)

‘Idalia is a grand celebratory room,’ Angell says, ‘and the menus reflect that with food and wine for celebration, not contemplation.’ Gunewardena has recruited two big hitters to deliver on that promise: executive chef Samantha Williams, formerly group executive chef for Angela Hartnett’s restaurants, and executive pastry chef Lorena Tommasi, previously head pastry chef for Jeremy King Restaurants.

idalia pilar hall london

(Image credit: Courtesy of Idalia)

Seasonal British ingredients are inflected with an international accent: whole wood-roasted turbot with shichimi togarashi butter and pickled daikon, or herb-crusted Herdwick lamb cutlet with courgette flower, rolled belly and ricotta. The signature dessert is the Vivienne Heel, a chocolate stiletto nodding to Westwood’s Olympia debut – not perhaps the footwear to show off in the guestlist-only Pepperbird bar downstairs, unless you want to take a Naomi Campbell tumble after a couple of cocktails.

idalia pilar hall london

(Image credit: Courtesy of Idalia)

Idalia is located at Pillar Hall, 5 Olympia Way, London W14 0EY, United Kingdom

Ben McCormack

Ben McCormack is a London-based restaurant journalist with over 25 years’ experience of writing. He has been the restaurant expert for Telegraph Luxury since 2013, for which he was shortlisted in the Restaurant Writer category at the Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards. He is a regular contributor to the Evening Standard, Food and Travel and Decanter. He lives in west London with his partner and lockdown cockapoo.