The Cadogan reimagines its restaurant as a bucolic English garden

Across all Belmond properties, a sense of warmth and intimacy envelops every charming corner. This is especially true for the newly introduced on-site restaurant at the group’s only London hotel, The Cadogan. Astutely positioned at the crossroads of Belgravia, Knightsbridge and Chelsea, the brand-new Willet’s offers a quintessential take on the British bistro under the guidance of executive chef Michael Turner, who previously held the same role at The Beaumont Mayfair.

Wallpaper* dines at Willet’s, London

The mood: buzzy, warm and convivial

Willet’s, which replaces the former on-site restaurant The LaLee, is named after the family of the same name that built the 1887 Chelsea townhouse now home to The Cadogan. Its serene, polished interior, courtesy of London-based Studio Shayne Brady, exudes the energy of a spring afternoon spent in a botanical garden. Brady drew inspiration from the area’s heritage, in particular its legacy of market gardens, dairies and craftsmanship.

Open from breakfast to dinner, the 44-cover space naturally evolves throughout the day. Guests enter through a subtly dramatic bar and pass by an open kitchen and chef’s counter defined by ribbed glass shelving and antique brass detailing on their way to the main dining room. Timber dining chairs stand out against the heritage green and blue colour palette, while the botanical theme continues with patterned café linen curtains at the windows, sculptural floral pendants and whimsical brass bee detailing. Conversely, antique mirrored panels and original 1887 herringbone timber flooring and ceiling roses add depth.

‘The approachable design focuses on pieces that feel tailored to the space, from the precision of the shelving to the richness of the leather banquettes and the refinement of the tailored fabric wall lights, which emit a soft warmth,’ Brady tells Wallpaper*. There’s also a refreshed outdoor space, reimagined as a lush 16-seat terrace.

The food: a celebration of the British bistro experience

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Nostalgic British favourites are executed with surprising twists and utmost savoir faire. Begin your experience at the bar with a drink, such as the Smoked Pears & Walnut, where savoury Stilton-washed rye meets sweet Herefordshire pears and walnuts, and pair it with bite-sized sourdough crumpets toasted in butter and topped with rotating choices of the likes of Dorset crab or duck liver parfait with Yorkshire rhubarb.

Executive chef Turner recommends the Wye Valley asparagus with fried duck egg, morels and wild garlic as a starter, calling it ‘a seasonal dish that reflects the kitchen’s approach to produce, celebrating ingredients at their peak with minimal interference.’ Follow this by the hearty Sutton Hoo chicken and morel pie with mashed potatoes and gravy: ‘a proper British classic, both celebratory and rooted in British dining culture.’ On the sweeter side, Granny Campbell’s sherry trifle is a nostalgic and generous choice.

Not to be missed, Willet’s also offers meat and fish-focused daily specials, as well as British sharing-style Sunday lunches.

Willet’s is located at 75 Sloane St, London, SW1X 9SG, United Kingdom