February 2025 saw the revival of the historic pub The Knave of Clubs on a Shoreditch site last famous as the home of Les Trois Garçons, the legendary noughties hotspot owned by the trio of interior designers comprising Hassan Abdullah, Michel Lasserre and Stefan Karlson. Now, One Club Row is opening upstairs from the Knave with the same crack team of seasoned hospitality professionals behind it: James Dye founded The Camberwell Arms, one of south London’s best gastropubs, and his co-owner Benjy Leibowitz was a director at JKS Restaurants. Meanwhile, culinary director Patrick Powell, until recently, oversaw Allegra in Stratford and the Midland Grand Dining Room at St Pancras.
Wallpaper* dines at One Club Row, London
The mood: New York, New York
Designer Nikki Weetch, who worked with Dye on his London Fields listening bar Bambi, took a lighter and brighter approach here. Original features such as the 19th-century panelling, fireplace and cornicing contrast with walls hung with bold prints from award-winning London artist Joy Yamusangie. Leibowitz, who spent four years as the head maître d’ of the NoMad Hotel in New York, is working the room with the same sense of Stateside hospitality. A house pianist will play every weekend, while monthly late shows will see cocktails and a bar menu served until the wee small hours to a soundtrack of live new-wave jazz. Can’t get a table? Ten seats at the bar are kept for walk-ins.
The food: a bite of the Big Apple
Powell and his head chef and former Allegra colleague Attila Gellèn have taken inspiration from Parisian bistros and New York taverns, serving up simple classics based on British produce. Three-martini suppers can be accompanied by a plate of oysters and snacks such as pickled jalapeño gougères; a proper meal might involve steak tartare or French onion soup followed by sharing plates of whole lobster tagliatelle and bone-in rib-eye with chipotle hollandaise. Still hungry? Dutch baby pancakes (like a sweet Yorkshire pudding) are baked to order. Wash it all down with old-world wines, vermouths and amaros.
One Club Row is located at 1 Club Row, London E1 6JX, UK; oneclubrow.com
See what's on the menu at more of the best new London restaurants
-
A new Athens gallery is a celebration of old and new, a stone's throw from the AcropolisNew Athens gallery Melas Martinos by Local Local is a contemporary art space, a stone's throw from the Acropolis, in the Greek capital's Monastiraki neighbourhood
-
Haute Couture Week A/W 2025: live updates from the Wallpaper* teamFrom 7-9 July, Haute Couture Week A/W 2025 arrives in Paris. Follow along for a first look at the shows, presentations and other fashion happenings, as seen by the Wallpaper* editors
-
Boundaries between art and life dissolve in Katherine Hubbard's intimate documentation of her mother's illnessIn 'The Great Room', Katherine Hubbard merges caregiving for her mother with an unflinching documentary of the process
-
Canal is a new west London restaurant with a suntrap terraceAt Canal, the new restaurant at Mason & Fifth’s Westbourne Park hotel, expect modern European breakfast, lunch and dinner from the team behind Crispin and Bistro Freddie
-
This hidden London culinary haven is a refreshing take on the steakhouseMr Porter, a new steakhouse, bar and lounge in central London's swish Mayfair, is a hidden haven of strong flavours and minimalist dining
-
A European-style café opens next to London’s Saatchi GalleryDesigned by Dion & Arles, Cafe Linea serves fresh pâtisseries, global dishes and sparkling wines in a stunning Grade II-listed setting
-
Ready to unplug? Sign up for this digital detox retreat in CornwallOffline escape provider Unplugged has partnered with Cabilla Cornwall to offer a phone-free, nature-immersive group experience on Bodmin Moor
-
Anya Hindmarch’s Ice Cream Project is London’s tastiest (and weirdest) summer traditionThe cult pop-up has returned, transforming a Belgravia corner into a sleek, steel-clad shrine to British pantry nostalgia
-
The best bars in London for bartending greatnessFrom chic hotel cocktail classics to game-changing flavour combinations, our resident drinks correspondent, Neil Ridley, explores ten of the best bars in London
-
NoMad London’s new restaurant fast-tracks you to New York’s jazz ageMartin Brudnizki Design Studio conjures up old-world glamour at Twenty8 NoMad, where the menu features nearly as many martini variations as main courses
-
Italian-Japanese fusion’s a joy at east London’s Osteria AngelinaA Victorian warehouse in Spitalfields has been given a slick modern makeover to house a unique Italian-Japanese restaurant
