February 2025 saw the revival of the historic pub The Knave of Clubs on a Shoreditch site last famous as the home of Les Trois Garçons, the legendary noughties hotspot owned by the trio of interior designers comprising Hassan Abdullah, Michel Lasserre and Stefan Karlson. Now, One Club Row is opening upstairs from the Knave with the same crack team of seasoned hospitality professionals behind it: James Dye founded The Camberwell Arms, one of south London’s best gastropubs, and his co-owner Benjy Leibowitz was a director at JKS Restaurants. Meanwhile, culinary director Patrick Powell, until recently, oversaw Allegra in Stratford and the Midland Grand Dining Room at St Pancras.
Wallpaper* dines at One Club Row, London
The mood: New York, New York
Designer Nikki Weetch, who worked with Dye on his London Fields listening bar Bambi, took a lighter and brighter approach here. Original features such as the 19th-century panelling, fireplace and cornicing contrast with walls hung with bold prints from award-winning London artist Joy Yamusangie. Leibowitz, who spent four years as the head maître d’ of the NoMad Hotel in New York, is working the room with the same sense of Stateside hospitality. A house pianist will play every weekend, while monthly late shows will see cocktails and a bar menu served until the wee small hours to a soundtrack of live new-wave jazz. Can’t get a table? Ten seats at the bar are kept for walk-ins.
The food: a bite of the Big Apple
Powell and his head chef and former Allegra colleague Attila Gellèn have taken inspiration from Parisian bistros and New York taverns, serving up simple classics based on British produce. Three-martini suppers can be accompanied by a plate of oysters and snacks such as pickled jalapeño gougères; a proper meal might involve steak tartare or French onion soup followed by sharing plates of whole lobster tagliatelle and bone-in rib-eye with chipotle hollandaise. Still hungry? Dutch baby pancakes (like a sweet Yorkshire pudding) are baked to order. Wash it all down with old-world wines, vermouths and amaros.
One Club Row is located at 1 Club Row, London E1 6JX, UK; oneclubrow.com
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