Caruso Nuovo Bistrot celebrates Milan’s culinary mastery

caruso nuovo bistrot milan dimore studio — (Image credit: Photography by Andrea Ferrari. Courtesy of Dimore Studio)

Milan’s Caruso Nuovo Bistrot has reopened its doors after an interior refresh by Dimore Studio, marking the venue’s 20th anniversary.

Located in the vibrant Piazzetta Croce Rossa, opposite Via Montenapoleone, the bistrot is known for its culinary offerings curated by international Chef Gennaro Esposito. Its owners, the Bertazzoni family, sought to create a sophisticated yet convivial ambiance where classic aesthetics seamlessly intermingle with contemporary elements. In collaboration with Dimore Studio, the bistrot now stands as a testament to the fusion of past and present, echoing the culinary philosophy curated by executive chef Francesco Potenza, who hails from the Campania region.

Caruso Nuovo Bistrot in Grand Hotel et de Milan

Rooted in mutual respect and a shared cultural background, the collaboration between Caruso Nuovo and Gennaro Esposito mirrors the philosophy that you should never forget your origins. This sentiment extends beyond the kitchen and into the very essence of the bistro, where patrons can immerse themselves in an environment that cherishes Milan’s cultural roots.

The restoration was led by Dimore Studio, whose interior approach was informed by Milanese upper-class aesthetics. In collaboration with Grand Hotel et de Milan, the studio meticulously revived the space’s original features, including columns, inlay, and grit floors, while infusing a modern sophistication that reflects the building’s historical significance.

Dimore Studio’s signature rich palettes and textures define the interiors, which include 20 green bamboo and fabric chandeliers from the studio’s archives and a Parallelo Glass Romantic console table by Dimore Milano in golden glass as a centrepiece to the dining room. The space is enriched by art deco patterns on the walls and upholstery, and enlivened by palm trees serving as dividers (and becoming a recurring motif on wallcoverings and brass lighting features). Off the dining room, the veranda blends historical architectural references from Portaluppi and Mongiardino, featuring rattan furniture and diamond patterns.

Just like the interiors, the menu by Esposito and Potenza blends tradition and contemporary influences, with quintessential Italian ingredients. Among the highlights is a ‘Vegetable Tour’, a tasting journey aimed at celebrating seasonal vegetables, as well as local classics that range from cotoletta alla Milanese to risotto allo zafferano, a saffron risotto here enriched with citrus and fennel. ‘In my line of work, it is a mortal sin to forget your origins,’ reads a quote by the chef introducing the menu. ‘It’s a manifestation of arrogance that also closes the door to the opportunity of future discoveries.’

Caruso Nuovo Bistrot
Grand Hotel Et De Milan
Via Croce Rossa
20121 Milano

dimorestudio.eu
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Maria Cristina Didero is an independent design curator, consultant and author, who has contributed to many publications over the years. Didero has consulted for companies such as Vitra, Fritz Hansen, Lexus, Fendi, Louis Vuitton, Valextra among others. Based in Milan, she works internationally, curating exhibitions for institutions: some of her most recent projects include Nendo: The Space in Between and The Conversation Show at the Holon Design Museum, Israel; FUN HOUSE by Snarkitecture at National Building Museum, Washington D.C.; SuperDesign a project about Italian radical design, NY; Vegan Design, or the Art of Reduction by Erez Nevi and The Fish and The Crowd by Carlo Massoud, Milan. In April 2022 she curated a Mathieu Lehanneur exhibition at the Triennale in Milan called The Inventory of Life, while in July she debuted a project at the MK&G in Hamburg titled Ask Me if I Believe in the Future, alongside a series of ongoing collaborations. She was appointed 2022 Curatorial Director of Design Miami/. She is currently preparing two projects for Milan Design Week 2023.