Everything you need to know about Italy's Lake Maggiore, according to Formafantasma
From baroque gardens to panoramic views, Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin show us around this Italian escape

Milan-based designers Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin, the duo behind transdisciplinary studio Formafantasma – which has just unveiled the fourth edition of the now-yearly Prada Frames symposium – have become a fixture on the global cultural calendar. True to their practice, where nature and design intersect, they retreat to the tranquillity of northern Italy’s Lake Maggiore, less than an hour’s train ride from Milan, to recharge from a life of constant movement.
During the weekends, you’ll likely find them at their small town apartment, housed within an old Renaissance castle, indulging in the recommendations shared below.
What to see and do in Lake Maggiore, Italy
Where to eat and drink
ll Sole di Ranco
‘This family-owned Italian restaurant features uncompromised views of Lake Maggiore. Our go-to course is spaghetti freddi, a refreshing pasta salad best eaten during summertime heat.’
Il Sole di Ranco is located at Indirizzo Commerciale, Piazza Venezia, 5, 21020 Ranco, Italy; ilsolediranco.it
La Tavola
‘The Il Porticciolo hotel’s restaurant is located on its lower level and opens out directly on to Lake Maggiore. Deliciously fresh dishes, made using the lake’s fish, come with a side order of striking panoramic views.’
La Tavola is located at Il Porticciolo Hotel, Via Fortino, 40, 21014 Varese, Italy; ilporticciolo.com
Osteria del Sass
‘When the restaurants along Lake Maggiore are too busy and the crowds of tourists are overwhelming, head a few kilometres away to the lesser-known town of Besozzo where you will find Osteria del Sass, a small restaurant serving fantastic food. Our favourite dish is the rabbit ragù with lasagnette.’
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Osteria del Sass is located at Via S. Antonio, 17b, 21023 Besozzo VA, Italy; osteriadelsass.it
Pasticceria Cardy
‘The rich aroma of butter and the skilful creations at this pasticceria will change your mind. A must-try is the Cannoncini alla Crema Pasticcera, creamy and delicious.’
Pasticceria Cardy is located at Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 57, 21026 Gavirate, Italy; pasticceriacardy.it
Circolo Arolese
‘In Italy, village bars are where locals of all ages gather for coffee, food, and games like cards or bocce, an Italian version of bowling. Circolo Arolese oozes this convivial atmosphere and proposes a locally sourced menu that is mostly plant-based.’
Circolo Arolese is located at Via A. Volta, 55, 21038 Leggiuno, Italy; @circolo.arolo
What to do
Palazzo Borromeo
Isola Bella
‘One of the Borromean Islands on Lake Maggiore, Isola Bella is home to Palazzo Borromeo and the grand Giardino dell’isola Bella, a famed Italian Baroque garden comprising ten overlapping terraces that form a truncated pyramid and feature statues, obelisks, and grottoes from the second half of the 17th century.’
Passeggiata dell’Amore
‘Passeggiata dell’Amore says it all with its name – a romantic stroll by the lake. Towards the end, near the old Fornaci factories, you can take a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear waters.’
Passeggiata dell’Amore, 21027 Ispra, Province of Varese, Italy
Villa Panza
‘Perched on the hill of Biumo Superiore in Varese, this 18th-century villa, once home to the Panza family, now houses a contemporary art collection, much of it sourced by the late modern art patron Giuseppe Panza. Our favourites include a series of Light Sculptures by Dan Flavin. The villa’s restaurant and Italian-style garden make for a perfect visit.’
Villa Panza is located at Piazza Litta, 1, 21100 Varese, Italy; fondoambiente.it
Where to shop
Il Mercato di Luino
‘Taking place every Wednesday, this market is well-known for its privileged position steps away from the lake and a wide variety of local products, crafts and flowers, as well as vintage clothing and furniture.’
Il Mercato di Luino is located at Via Comi, 4, 21016 Luino, Italy; ilmercatodiluino.it
Sofia de la Cruz is the Travel Editor at Wallpaper*. A self-declared flâneuse, she feels most inspired when taking the role of a cultural observer – chronicling the essence of cities and remote corners through their nuances, rituals, and people. Her work lives at the intersection of art, design, and culture, often shaped by conversations with the photographers who capture these worlds through their lens.
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