Tour Milan like a local with designer Hannes Peer

Milan-based architect Hannes Peer defies the notion that versatility comes at the expense of mastery. Hailing from the South Tyrol region, he studied architecture at the Politecnico in Milan and the Technical University of Berlin before working for Rem Koolhaas in Rotterdam, Zvi Hecker in Berlin, and several studios in Milan, where he established his eponymous studio in 2009. It’s a place, as he points out, that rewards curiosity.

‘What I appreciate most is the intellectual environment. You constantly run into designers, architects, editors, artists and gallerists. There is a real sense of exchange and dialogue. It constantly feeds my work as both an architect and designer,’ says Peer. ‘There is a sense of discipline in how people move through Milan, yet, at the same time, you see a fascinating coexistence between established elegance and a vibrant youth culture that brings spontaneity and experimentation. It’s a surprisingly small city that produces an immense amount of creativity.’

From large-scale hospitality, retail and museum projects to intimate residential projects, Peer’s portfolio spans architecture and design in their many forms. His practice also extends into products and furniture, having authored pieces for Minotti and Baxter while producing collectable works for galleries such as Nilufar in Milan and Blend in Rome. His style is defined by vibrant, immersive layouts articulated through careful material modulation – polished wood and marble sit alongside textured ceramics and metals, all shaped by abundant natural light.

For the official launch of our Milan Travel Guide, we tapped the polymath to share his take on the Italian design capital, asking him to spotlight the haunts that remind him why he loves it so much.

Hannes Peer’s Milan

The Hannes Peer studio sits in the authentically Milanese neighbourhood of Porta Romana. Its name may derive from the neighbouring 16th-century gate, yet the area has emerged as a hub of contemporary architecture and design. Here you’ll find the OMA-designed Fondazione Prada cultural centre and the Piazza Olivetti public square.

Moments from the studio is the family-run Trattoria Masuelli San Marco, which Peer suggests everyone treat as their second dining room. ‘There is a very authentic Milanese atmosphere that is becoming rare in the city,’ says Peer. ‘It is, in my opinion, one of the best restaurants in Milan. I usually order very classic dishes, such as the costoletta alla Milanese.’

Heading north to Via Plinio brings you to the unmissable Bar Basso and its perfectly stirred negroni sbagliato. ‘The waiters are old-school Milanese, slightly grumpy at first glance, but with a hidden smile that appears once they recognise you. That mix of character and irony is something I adore about Milan,’ says Peer. Craving something sweet? The original Marchesi 1824 is always a safe bet: ‘It’s the oldest pasticceria in Milan and the only one I truly like.’

From here, two destinations lie in almost opposite directions. Head for Torre Velasca, which Peer calls one of the true symbols of the city: ‘It represents the golden era of Italian architecture and design after the war. I have always loved its brutalist character and the slightly rebellious attitude it brings to the skyline.’ Or visit Piero Portaluppi’s Villa Necchi Campiglio, one of the best preserved art deco villas in Italy: ‘Walking through it feels like entering another era.’

‘As with any city, Milan is not always polished. It can be chaotic and dirty and, at times, you feel it could love itself a bit more, but that is also part of its character,’ says Peer. ‘It reveals itself slowly, not trying to impress you at first glance. Even on the days when it drives you crazy, you realise you’d probably miss it the moment you leave.’

According to Hannes...

What is the best month to visit Milan? September. It's when the Milanese go back to work, and Milan becomes Milan again.

What should one wear to blend in? Casual and effortless. If you try too hard to stand out, locals will think it's a bit tacky.

Who is someone in the city you admire? Miuccia Prada.

What is the best way to make friends? Go out in NoLo, a good place to misbehave.

I can't leave Milan without… a heartache.

For more recommendations, buy our Milan Travel Guide.