PiDGiN, Vancouver, Canada

Terminal City’s latest culinary venture has dared to install itself opposite historic Pigeon Park - turf adamantly claimed by the local homeless community and now unremittingly picketed by anti-gentrification activists. Drama aside, the scene is best savoured with a sake-infused cocktail and a selection of West Coast-style tapas (think chili lime peanuts, beef tataki and parisienne gnocchi). The simple, elegant fare is honed to perfection by Winnipeg chef Makoto Ono, who trained at his parent’s sushi bar, cooked in London and opened restaurants in Beijing and Hong Kong. Interiors are by local restaurant designer of the moment Craig Stanghetta, whose studio Ste Marie marries Japanese minimalism and deco references with warming wood furniture and bespoke lighting (by partner company Good Animal). Standout features include a quirky goose wing prosthesis by Mexico-born artist Enriquez Alvarez, and claw taps by local studio Espiritu design.