Style findings: September dispatches from the Wallpaper* fashion team

Water world
18 September

We’re well familiar with the anecdote ‘when it rains it pours,’ but lucky for us Allbirds has a snuggly, well-heeled answer to all those soggy rain-splashed days. Just weeks after the San Francisco-based, sustainability-minded sneaker brand launched socks, now the label has launched its humorously titled ‘Mizzle collection’, featuring an insulating drizzle-defying wool runner and newly launched high top style, crafted from thick ZQ-certified Merino wool and a chunkier SweetFoamTM sole reinforced with high traction natural rubber. What’s more, a water repellent film is encased within the wool upper of the shoe, made using a fluorine-free treatment. It means you’ll be free to splash your sneakers into puddles all autumn long. April showers don’t sound so soggy either.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Green light
17 September

There’s a Sex and the City-style seduction behind Amsterdam-based brand Gauge 81’s A/W 2019 collection, one swimming with mannish oversized tailoring, sensual asymmetric rib knit jumpers, spaghetti strap mini dresses and transparent shirting. With a pared-back Nineties nonchalance, the brand meets somewhere between sexy night on the tiles-wear and strong androgynous suiting, and is the brain child of Colombian designer Monika Silva, Amsterdam-based fashion consultant Gijsje Ribbens and knitwear designer Fira Rietveld. XL V-neck sweaters and mini skirts are symbols of the brand’s playful sense of scale, also noted in its technical brand name, which refers to the specific weight of a yarn. We’re convinced Carrie Bradshaw would wear it all.
 

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Get sedated
16 September

This winter sees A.P.C. team up with Brain Dead, the international creative collective of artists and designers, on a capsule collection of graphic-emblazoned items for both men and women. Taking an imaginary movie entitled ‘Future Shock’ as inspiration, the resulting collection acts as what the merchandise for this would encapsulate. Brightly coloured hoodies come with the movies title printed on the front, while t-shirts have a mock promotional poster pasted on the back. Elsewhere, fictional script extracts scroll over jeans and denim jackets. The playful Brain Dead logo is fused with that of A.P.C.s and stuck badge-like on the chest of sweats and side of bucket hats.

Writer: Jason Hughes
 

Diamond designs
13 September

Pringle of Scotland has eschewed the London Fashion Week schedule this season, but for those un need of its colourful, knitwear focused flair, look no further than its newest unisex Reissued collection. The capsule, available exclusively at Dover Street Market, features a host of the brand’s signature Argle pattern styles, inspired by its Eighties archives. Think bold jumpers, cardigans, socks and beanies, for flaunting at London Fashion Week, the blustery Scottish hills of Pringle’s home country, and beyond.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

On the hour
12 September

We’re over the (half)moon with Balenciaga’s Hourglass Bag, a wonderfully sharply curving style introduced for A/W 2019, that revels in negative space, to create a suspended half-moon shape. This hourglass form is synonymous with the Parisian house, famed for pioneering revolutionary silhouettes, like its archival Basque-waist coats. Now, the accessory can well and truly fit your own form, as Balenciaga have introduced a customisation service, allowing London shoppers to personalise the piece with a colourful scribble of graffiti. In recent seasons, the brand has become known for its penchant for street art – its A/W 2018 catwalk show was held against the backdrop of a huge neon graffiti-tagged mountain. From 13-17 September, an artist will be on hand at Balenciaga’s Sloane Street store to tag first names, initials and birthdates onto its latest arm candy, before moving on to Dover Street Market, Balenciaga’s Mount Street boutique and Harrods.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Body and Seoul
11 September

Earlier this spring, destination-themed concept store Koibird in London’s Marylebone, took shoppers to the sun-drenched and palm tree-lined streets of Los Angeles, with a S/S 2019 buy brimming with Californian style. For autumn, Koibird has ventured to Korea, with an innovative edit of its kaleidoscopic and subversive take on style. ‘I’ve bought into a host of emerging Seoul-based brands’ says seasoned traveller and Koibird founder Belma Gaudio, who travelled to the Bladerunner-centric city, and has spotlit 31 brands, including Low Classic, BESFXXK and BETTERKIND STUDIO. ‘The store is an exploration and celebration of this cutting edge and contemporary destination, its inspirational creatives and its culture.’ For the ultimate immersive experience, Gaudio has also teamed up with Seoul-based artist Kwangho Lee on in-store seating and a striking chandelier, crafted from tangles of blue, orange and mint hued silk and nylon rope. For K-Beauty obsessives there’s also an entire wall dedicated to 40 beauty and wellness brands, whether you favour a Shangpree eye mask or Muchacha potpourri fragrance.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Racing stripes
10 September

One of our most enjoyable London exhibition experiences, is climbing the staircase at Connolly’s Mayfair store, to find what images, artefacts and artworks adorn its walls. In recent months, the British label has dedicated shows to every day, household objects from sub-Saharan Africa and to the figurative female works of Alba Hodsoll. Now, in celebration of Connolly and Goodwood’s autumn clothing collaboration, the label presents ‘Goodwood Style’ - a series of black and white photographic compositions by Koto Bolofo depicting the Goodwood driving circuit, lensed in 2004. It was here that the South African photographer had been sent to shoot a fashion editorial for Italian Vogue, using a live racing backdrop. ‘A paradise of Bugattis, Maseratis, ferocious roaring Jaguars, Stag Triumphs, Blazing Mustangs, Cobras, Sting Ray Corvettes and even the cassic Beetle. This was an automobile animal Kingdom simply called heaven!’ Bolof says. We urge you to ascend to Connolly’s Clifford Street first floor, and indulge in some automobile ecstasty yourselves. Goodwood Style is on view until 2 October 2019.
 

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Great Scot!
9 September

Back in January, we gave the Kengo Kuma-designed coastline-inspired V&A Dundee the Wallpaper* Design Award 2019 for the Best New Public Building. Now Scotland’s first design museum has unveiled an exhibition dedicated to the creative practice of North London-based menswear fashion designer Nicholas Daley, who takes inspiration from his Scottish-Jamaican heritage. For his colourful stripe, tie-dye and check-infused S/S 2020 collection, Daley looked to the reggae club night – one of the first in Scotland which his parents ran in the late Seventies and Eighties. They first met in the Dundee nightclub The Barracuda. The exhibition offers a prismatic insight into Daley’s universe, featuring patterns, garments and inspirational mood boards, which explorethe personal narratives that define Daley’s collections, from photographs of his parents at the The Reggae Klub, to the UK manufactures who have partnered on his collections. Studio Nicholas Daley is on view until 2 February 2020.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Core strength
6 September

This September sees London-based fashion brand Berthold step away from the conventional fashion calendar and launch a non-seasonal core collection. Consisting of 14 key pieces the permanent range of gender neutral garments all encapsulate the brand’s distinct take on silhouettes and utility clothing. Last night, designer Raimund Berthold launched his new line in a suitably performative fashion. At The Swiss Church in Central London, Ms Carrie Stacks belted out melancholic songs to live piano, while around the space Berthold’s new collection populated the church’s floor in a striking still life, designed by Justyna Kabala, like flotsam floating on the surface of water. ‘Thinking in only four seasons or two genders or one style is limiting,’ Berthold says of the launch. ‘We have pulled away from cyclical shows and disposable trends, shrugging off convention, opening up opportunities for collaboration and multidisciplinary thinking’. The Core collection will be accompanied by a series of limited edition projects to be released throughout the year, and after last night’s spine-tingling launch, we can’t wait for the next one.

Writer: Jason Hughes

Power of three
5 September

All good things – we are assured – come in threes and the third and final part of the New York-based designer Shayne Oliver’s collaboration with Colmar doesn’t disappoint. The Hood by Air founder has nurtured a cult following with his bold, incisive work and has reinterpreted the close-to-a-century deep archives of the Italian skiwear brand with a 14-piece gender-free collection. Gentle fleece sweatshirts with hi-vis pockets; feather-weight technical fabric trousers and a range of re-appropriated outerwear archetypes are available now. ‘We have been able to create a strong and genuine relationship,’ Giulio Colombo, Colmar’s CEO says of the project.

This latest installment refines some of Oliver’s avant-garde eccentricity for a wider appeal. ‘At times it was challenging for us both but we are so happy with the outcome of the collaboration and how it has been received. This final drop allows you to see the mix between both of our worlds,’ Colombo says. ‘It is a collection that reflects two different histories.’ 

Writer: Dal Chodha

Artistic license
4 September

We’ve kept a close eye on the art pieces which are popping up in Celine’s newest retail spaces, from New York to Tokyo, overhauled by its artistic, creative, and image director Hedi Slimane. Just look to our June issue of Wallpaper*, which celebrated the opening of the label’s rue de Grenelle womenswear store in Paris, and is populated with pieces by Shawn Kuruneru, a site-specific installation by Oscar Tuazon, and furniture designed Slimane himself. Over in London’s Mayfair, Celine has reopened its 270 sq m Mount Street store after a period of refurbishment, and interior artistic collaborations are aplenty. We urge you to pop in, not only to take in Celine’s A/W 2019 men’s and women’s collection, but to take in striking additions to its Art Project series, including new works by David Jablonowski, Fay Ray, Tiril Hasselknippe and a specially commissioned artwork by Lukas Geronimas.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Pipe dream
3 September

Sofas shaped like soap; metal pipes for clothing rails; and an oversized tap on the façade: it’s all about water in Issey Miyake Semba, a new two-level flagship which has opened in Osaka. Playful water-inspired design touches are balanced with a light, minimal aesthetic throughout the space, which spans more than 820 sq m (it’s the world’s largest Issey Miyake store). Water is an apt theme for Osaka, a city famed for its maritime ties, as its designer Shingo Noma explains: ‘The creativity of Issey Miyake flows through the space like water. It’s a fount of creativity.’ 

It’s the first store in western Japan to showcase all eight Issey Miyake brands under one roof, while the basement houses a Creation Space for experimental exhibitions. The inaugural show features iconic illustrator Seitaro Kuroda’s live water-inspired artworks.

Flooded with natural light, there are raw concrete walls and mirror panels, plus pipe-like stainless steel rails made by Osakan artisans; a dozen soap-like sofas in pale blue, grey and white; changing rooms resembling shower cubicles; and a circular cash desk in the form of a giant plug. ‘Fount of Creativity’ is on view until 31 October. 

Photography: © Issey Miyake Inc, by Masaya Yoshimura, Copist. Writer: Danielle Demetriou

Hip hip hoo-Raey!
2 September

Ever since Matchesfashion opened its five storey townhouse in London’s Mayfair in September 2018, we’ve been in regular attendance of its exciting talks and immersive events. This week, the retail behemoth has amped up its experiential output with a series of activations celebrating the launch of its in-house label Raey’s most recent campaign and collection, styled by Suzanne Koller and photographed by Theo Sion. If the organically-hued oversize pea coats, XL suiting and chunky knits aren’t enough for your autumn agenda, we suggest you pop in to Carlos Place and partake in Matchesfashion’s month-long series of celebratory public workshops, including 30-minute denim tailoring appointments, customised horticultural embroidery experiences with Cressida Jamieson and an ear piercing workshop with Ferian. Hip hip Hoo-Raey! 

Writer: Laura Hawkins