Ten of the best track jackets for channelling a 1970s-meets-1990s cool
As a ‘Marty Supreme’ track jacket makes a bid for viral garment of 2025 – thanks to one Timothée Chalamet – the Wallpaper* style team selects ten of the best tracksuit and coach jackets for men and women, each encapsulating an easy, nostalgia-tinged elegance
At the time of writing, on fashion resale site StockX, a nylon track jacket emblazoned with ‘Marty Supreme’ and three golden stars is selling for £4,366 – over 20 times its original retail price of $250. Released in the year’s latter weeks, the garment – sold by zeitgeist-y film production company A24 in collaboration with California-based label Nahmias – is perhaps the viral garment of 2025, released to celebrate the launch of Josh Safdie’s Marty Supreme (the movie is in UK cinemas December 26, 2025).
A large part of its appeal, no doubt, is the film’s star: one Timothée Chalamet, who plays fledgling ping pong champion Marty Reisman in what he has called the performance of his lifetime (critics have largely agreed). In late November, queues snaked around the block in New York’s SoHo for a Grand Street pop-up selling the nostalgic jacket, alongside hoodies and tees. It spoke to the growing influence of movie merch – in late 2024, Mary Cleary explored the phenomenon of the movie tee for Wallpaper* – but also of the growing ubiquity of the track jacket, which in the hands of designers like Grace Wales Bonner and Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu has come to encapsulate a kind of easy elegance.
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It’s also a garment which straddles two eras which have long inspired contemporary fashion designers: the 1970s and the 1990s. Celine, Valentino and Loewe have all swayed towards the former in their iterations of the track jacket; with Willy Chavarria, Martine Rose and Commission taking cues from the latter, while its synonymy with subculture – from football fans to Goodfellas gangsters – intills it with a perennial cool.
Here, selected by the Wallpaper* style team, ten of the best track jackets for men and women – from the familiar (a classic signal-red Adidas Firebird) to the unexpected (a cocooning knitted version from Amsterdam-based label Extreme Cashmere).
Coach and track jackets have been ubiquitous on the Miu Miu runway for a number of seasons – notably, a series of 1990s-inflected zip-ups which appeared as part of Miuccia Prada’s S/S 2025 collection. Where Mrs Prada goes, others tend to follow: this classic track jacket in navy is the equivalent of getting it straight from the source.
As sportswear brands go, Adidas arguably ‘owns’ the track jacket – it has been part of its oeuvre since the late 1960s. British designer Grace Wales Bonner is drawn to this era in her ongoing cult collaborations with the brand – this jacket, with Adidas’ classic trefoil emblem, encapsulates her nostalgia-tinged vision.
This two-tone tracksuit jacket by Parisian house Celine also captures a certain 1970s nostalgia: albeit cut from luxurious double-faced jersey and adorned with the distinct serif emblem. Our favourite detail, though, is the zipper, which features a tiny version of the house’s ‘Triomphe Monogram’ in metal.
Amsterdam-based label Extreme Cashmere is notable for the way it takes garments not usually constructed from cashmere – skirts, bra tops, even ‘evening gowns’ – and rewrites them in the noble fibre (though always with an irreverent cool and bold palette). This blouson-cum-track jacket is one example – you won't take it off this winter.
Martine Rose has long drawn inspiration from the rave culture she remembers from growing up in London as a teenager. Her version of the track jacket for the season – it’s a garment she has often returned to – is shrunken in volume for a typically off-kilter silhouette.
We are big fans of New York-based label Commission, which sees designers Dylan Cao and Jin Kay draw from both the street style of their current home city and the 1990s dress codes of their mothers, who grew up in Vietnam and Korea respectively. This A/W 2025 jacket draws inspiration from Judo attire, and is satisfyingly ‘off’ in its muted colour palette.
An attraction to maximalism has long informed Alessandro Michele’s approach to design, something he brought from Gucci to Valentino, where he is now creative director. This Valentino Garavani jacket captures this approach: 1970s-inspired, it features a bold V-shaped design and classic Valentino emblem.
New York-based label Willy Chavarria is built on juxtapositions, instilling work- and sportswear with the abundance – and dramatic silhouettes – of Parisian haute couture. This nylon track jacket comes with its own feeling of elegance: when worn, its designed to fall generously on the body.
While track jackets tend towards the boldly hued, this version from Loewe is appealing in its restraint: crafted from black jersey with the slightest sheen, it is contrasted with clean white piped stripes and the Loewe monogram on the chest. With black trousers and dress shoes, it’ll pass as eveningwear.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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