
Prada: As usual, AMO were behind the transformation of the grand hall at the Deposito, the multifunctional venue for performances that is part of the Fondazione Prada complex in Milan. Centred around whimsical piazzas, guests were gathered on platforms, viewing the collection from above. Below, models were weaving in and out of symmetrical portals lining the fabricated squares – Dramatically lit to cast long, afternoon-like shadows.

Dior: The specially constructed space on Place de La Concorde in Paris was according to men’s artistic director, Kim Jones, ‘an ode to all those who have been with us and passed on, from Christian Dior to Judy Blame’. The atmospheric space, centred on glass-boxes filled with smoke and lit up in hues of orange and blue, perfectly framed the collection with a subtle nod to the Buffalo Boy inspiration.

Feng Chen Wang: Following a recent trip to the Wuyi Mountains in the Fujian province of China, Feng Chen Wang took inspiration from the mist at dawn when creating the eponymous brand’s show set this season. Using icy hues of blues and reds reflected on smoke, the space was set up as a gallery instead of a traditional runway – leaving the audience with a single perspective decided by Feng Chen Wang. Emulating the sunrise, the audience was left immersed in darkness, with the colours shifting from orange, red and blue. Photography: Haydon Perrior

Y/Project: Inspired by artists Charles Pétillon and Olafur Eliasson, known for their playful aesthetic, set-designer Dennis Vanderbroeck collaborated with creative director Glenn Martens in creating a tongue-in-cheek Paris setting to accompany Y/Project’s latest collection. With whimsical wit, Vanderbroeck took the guests on a trip down memory lane. Bringing us back to our school days, the runway was constructed in a traditional gym circling a balloon-filled ball pit we were desperate to dive in to headfirst.

MSGM: Legendary film director and master of Italian Horror, Dario Argento, served as inspiration and collaborator for MSGM’s show in Milan. Saturated colours, killer aesthetics and a playfully sinister tone painted the perfect background for the collection, which featured prints of flesh-eating plants and a colour scheme lifted straight from Argento’s frightening classics. Inspired by Argento’s 1975 film Deep Red, the light sculpture in the centre was casting long reflections on the polished concrete floors bathing the runway in blood red.

A-Cold-Wall*: Centred around sea-green see-through boxes with metal wiring, the London brand’s Milan show set married the manmade with the natural. Originally an ice rink, Palazzo del Ghiaccio’s delicate interiors from 1923 was put in juxtaposition with massive blocks of glass. Research for the collection looked to one of the fundamentals of life, water, using the element’s flowing shapes as a foundation for the design. This was then married with structured hoods supported by wireframes and utilitarian designs, perfectly mirroring in the duality of the show space.