Paul Smith brings the Swinging Sixties to Sadler’s Wells in ‘Quadrophenia, A Mod Ballet’

Last night, Quadrophenia, A Mod Ballet previewed at Islington's Sadler's Wells Theatre, where it will run until 13 July 2025. The production is adapted from The Who’s 1973 rock opera Quadrophenia, written by the band’s Pete Townshend, which inspired the cult 1979 film.

This is far from a traditional ballet. There were no tutus or tights – no sweeping scores by Tchaikovsky or Prokofiev. Instead, the performance featured offbeat choreography by Paul Roberts, a dynamic orchestral arrangement by Rachel Fuller and Martin Batchelar, and costume design by Paul Smith.

Quadrophenia, A Mod Ballet tells the story of Jimmy, a disillusioned mod wrestling with various facets of his identity, set against the backdrop of the famed mods versus rockers feud – a rivalry as emotionally charged as any in Romeo and Juliet or West Side Story.

Visually, the production is an exuberant showcase of mod style – the parka is a recurring symbol, discarded (spoilers ahead) when a tormented Jimmy attempts to take his own life, and taken up once again when he changes his mind. Elsewhere, there are polos, RAF target motifs and, of course, sharp tailoring: slim-fitting, narrow-lapelled, cigarette-silhouette suits in bold colours and patterns. In short, it was a stage tailor-made for Paul Smith.

Known for his crisp cuts, colourful linings and playful detailing, the eponymous founder of the brand, now 78, began his career in the late-1960s as a tailor, dressing actual mods in suits not unlike the ones seen in the production.

For Quadrophenia, A Mod Ballet, Smith created era-appropriate tonic suits in a subtle check. The eagle-eyed will also notice a stone-coloured raincoat lifted straight from Paul Smith’s A/W 2024 collection worn by one of the cast.

But this wasn’t simply a case of nostalgic styling. The costumes had to allow for full range of movement – not something that tailoring typically accommodates. The Paul Smith team responded with smart adaptations like articulated sleeve gussets and specially cut trousers. Each suit was custom-made for its dancer, ensuring that style never came at the expense of performance.

As far as costume collaborations go, this Mod ballet and Paul Smith are a natural fit.

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