Mood board: ‘New shapes, new fabrics and reworked prints,’ Smith said of his 50th anniversary collection. ‘I’ve softened British checks and houndstooth with Italian cloths and used exaggerated proportions to give it a dreamy feel.’ The designer is globally revered for his tailoring and print and for A/W 20 the suiting was light with a longer line on the jackets. Ties were replaced by high neck shirting with a zip at the side.
Best in show: The slightly flared trousers gave a nod to the 1970s when Smith began the label, working out of a small shop in Nottingham, which he started after meeting art students in the local Bell Inn pub. Speaking in 2008, he said: ‘they had an enormous effect on me – they opened up a world I did not know existed and probably the key thing was that the world was not just clothes but all aspects of creativity and this is what I tried to express.’ His collection forewent any romanticism, however, and instead looked ahead with long puffa jackets and trainers and floral-camo denim.
Sound bite: Smith has endured as a British design icon for half a century. ‘With it being my 50th anniversary, I’ve reflected on memorable moments from my own archive but reworked them in a modern and restrained way. I’ve revisited details from my past like raw edges, top-stitching and denim and brought them back!’ he said. Smith took an energetic bow as footage of his fifty years of finales played on a giant screen behind him.
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In Shanghai, Hermès conjures a ‘cosmopolitan explorer’ for its one-off show on the Huangpu RiverNadège Vanhée, artistic director of Hermès’ womenswear collections, presented ‘The Second Chapter’ of her A/W 2025 collection earlier this evening (13 June 2025) against the futuristic skyline of Shanghai
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Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekIt was a jam-packed week for the Wallpaper* staff, entailing furniture, tech and music launches and lots of good food – from afternoon tea to omakase
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Peugeot brings back a classic performance badge for the electric era: meet the E-208 GTiPeugeot has unveiled the new E-208 GTi, a performance EV designed to hark back to a golden age of compact sports cars
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Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
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Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
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‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
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French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
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What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
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Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
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This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
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How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
