The second stop on the menswear calendar after Pitti Uomo, Milan Fashion Week Men’s has long been rooted in Italy’s rich sartorial history – reinterpreted season after season by its blockbuster roster of designers and houses, which includes Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Tod’s and Brioni. They will all show collections for the S/S 2027 edition of Milan Fashion Week Men’s, which is taking place this weekend in the style capital.
But Milan also draws names from beyond Italy’s borders – this edition sees the return of two legendary menswear designers, Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren, who will show S/S 2027 collections in their respective Milanese headquarters this weekend (Smith, who turns 80 next month, has shown for a number of seasons in Italy, while Lauren returned his menswear to Milan last season for the first time in 20 years). Elsewhere, a handful of newer names add energy – like the acclaimed Japan-born, Italy-based Satoshi Kuwata of Setchu, and Saul Nash, who is based in London but chooses to show in Milan – though the city is still light on fresher talent (its schedule is relatively sedate in comparison to Paris, which follows).
Also joining Milan Fashion Week Men’s this season is Thom Browne, who is making his debut in the city – expect a typically theatrical offering from the American designer, who will show on Monday afternoon at Palazzo Serbelloni.
Here, follow our real-time look at Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2027 – from behind-the-scenes glimpses to access to the shows, presentations and parties, alongside runway reviews – as seen through the eyes (and iPhones) of the Wallpaper* editors. Stay tuned.
Jack Moss is Wallpaper’s Fashion & Beauty Features Director, reporting for the magazine’s digital and print editions – from international runway shows to profiling the style world’s leading figures.
Jason Hughes is Wallpaper’s Fashion & Creative Director, overseeing all style content – from fashion and beauty to watches and jewellery – as well as leading the visual direction of the magazine.
India is a writer and editor based in London, specialising in fashion, beauty, arts, interiors and culture. She is a regular Wallpaper* contributor.
Umit Benan is creating some of Milan’s best menswer
Some of the most compelling collections in Milan are often found off the runway: case in point, the Stuttgart-born, Milan-based designer Umit Benan’s S/S 2027 offering, presented in his airy headquarters on Via Bigli (the brand’s beautiful Martin Brûlé-designed store across the road is also well worth a visit; today, it turned into an impromptu flower shop). Crafted from superlative fabrics – this season, silk and linen mixes, lightweight suede and superfine cashmere – Benan reimagines quotidian garments in luxurious style, though the effect is never overwrought (encapsulating this was a pair of silk pyjamas designed to be worn like tailoring). Most striking, though, was the palette: alongside his usual grounding hues of brown, tan, beige and navy were enlivening shots of pink, banana yellow and sky blue. JM
Ralph Lauren is having a moment
Polo Ralph Lauren’s Pony motif has already proved ubiquitous this Men’s Fashion Month as guests adopt the American powerhouse’s Ivy League stylings through their personal wardrobes (in part helped by the embrace of preppy dress codes at other buzzy brands like Celine and Dior in recent seasons).
This evening at the Palazzo Ralph Lauren in Milan on the first evening of the city’s fashion week, its eponymous designer capitalised on the moment with an expansive and eclectic S/S 2027 runway show comprising both the Polo and Ralph Lauren Purple Label collections – designed to outfit the wearer through his various summertime pursuits.
‘When I began designing menswear, my inspiration came from the ease and traditions of collegiate style,’ Lauren wrote in a letter to attendees. ‘These collections are inspired by that spirit. It was about character and camaraderie.’ JM
