Mood board: Smith’s label is one of British fashion’s most notable success stories. Travelling around the world at the start of his career in the 1970s, he was drawn into the burgeoning arts scene of New York, visiting galleries like OK Harris, Pace and Leo Castelli. S/S 2020 channeled a ‘scruffy elegance’ inspired by the artists he met there. Tailoring was shrugged on and treated like painter’s overalls. Oversized jackets and blousons were worn layered. Skinny trousers were pinched, gathered at the calf. Standout was a series of double-breasted suits in yellow, pink and grey, worn with same colour matching boots.
Scene setting: The catwalk space was set to zero in an all-in-white room. The stripped back staging had freshness to it, like a studio waiting to be covered in the drips of new artworks. The colours of the season popped. The soundtrack, composed by Andrew Hale and Peter Smith, collaged together jazz tracks that kept the mood buoyant. The models strode to the pulsating beat of Sons of Kemet who are having something of a fashion moment, fresh from performing for Nicholas Daley inside Mary-at-Hill church during London Men’s Fashion Week. Loft jazz was the soundtrack to Smith’s state of America.
Sound bite: Double-faced silk was quilted with a cobweb design and made into jackets. There were pinstripes on recycled polyester cargo pants and a matching matte cotton suit jacket. A longer fluid line was introduced to double-breasted suiting, with a wider shoulder on soft plongé leather pieces. ‘The collection is packed full of modern tailoring. I’ve taken fabrics that are unexpected in suits – recycled polyester, silk and lots of technical fabrics that you’d expect to find in sportswear but in tailored garments,’ Smith said. There’s a real optimism to the palette with colour building from dusty pink and sage to bright blues and yellow. ‘It’s a collage of different colours, textures and fabrics.’
-
This surreal new seafood restaurant in LA is the stuff of mermaid's dreamsAt Cento Raw Bar, delectable fare is complemented by playful, oceanic interiors by Brandon Miradi
-
What’s new in the wearable world of smart glasses, and extended and augmented realityAre you ready for AR? Meta, Google, Snap and more are gearing up to compete with Apple and deliver frames-based communications devices – complete with AI integration
-
Italian-Japanese fusion’s a joy at east London’s Osteria AngelinaA Victorian warehouse in Spitalfields has been given a slick modern makeover to house a unique Italian-Japanese restaurant
-
Donna Trope celebrates the power of the Polaroid in Paris‘Polaroids used to be my rejects, and now they are my holy grail,’ says the beauty photographer, as she shows rarely seen images in a Paris exhibition
-
Horace’s new men’s scent is the linen shirt of the fragrance closetVetiver Primavera, the new fragrance from men’s grooming brand Horace, is casual but elegant, says Wallpaper’s Mary Cleary – a citrussy scent for summer
-
‘Don’t forget to get the bread!’ Serge Lutens writes an ode to a singular perfumePublished exclusively by Wallpaper*, Serge Lutens writes an ode to Jeux de Peau, a singular perfume of his creation inspired by a childhood memory of baking bread
-
French skincare brand PERS doesn’t believe in overcomplicated routinesFrench skincare brand PERS – an acronym for ‘protect, enhance, repair, and stimulate’ – has recently arrived in the UK. The mastermind behind it, Dr Antoni Calmon, tells Wallpaper* about his protocol
-
What did Christian Dior’s favourite ‘invisible’ flower smell like?Dior’s Francis Kurkdijan recreates the scent of a rare lily of the valley species in Le Muguet, the first olfactory chapter of new perfume collection Les Récoltes Majeures
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrastThe Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
-
This perfume bottle archive was nearly lost. Now, it offers a rare whiff of fragrance historyFifty blueprints from a forgotten French crystal manufacturer will be for sale as part of the New York International Antiquarian Book Fair
-
How an 18th-century mansion became a Loewe wonderland for Paris Fashion WeekDrawing on the act of scrapbooking, Jonathan Anderson took over the Hôtel de Maisons with a self-reflective A/W 2025 presentation, shown alongside colourful artworks from the brand’s collection
