Welcome to Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026
After a relatively sedate three days in Pitti Uomo – the twice-yearly menswear fair in Florence – the next stop on menswear fashion month’s grand tour is Milan, where the behemoths of Italian design will present their visions for the S/S 2026 season ahead. These include Giorgio and Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, the latter no doubt featuring a dramatic runway set created with longtime collaborators with OMA (we unpacked the 25-year partnership here). And, such is the power of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as fashion soothsayers, the show will likely set the tone of the season ahead – all eyes will be on Fondazione Prada come the afternoon of June 22.
There is also something of a British invasion, with Dunhill returning to show on the afternoon of June 22, and Sir Paul Smith shifting from Paris where he has traditionally shown his menswear collections. Promising an intimate showcase, the collection will no doubt celebrate his longstanding love affair with Italy. ‘I’ve proudly had my own showroom in Milan for 22 years and have great affection for the city,’ he says. ‘I’ll be hosting a salon-style show which I know will be intimate and honest to who we are.’ Young British designer Saul Nash, whose shape-shifting sportswear is inspired by a personal history of dance, will also show for the second time in Milan this season.
Elsewhere, an array of presentations, launches and aperitivo will be hosted across the city, which is well-known for its rich history of design. Showcases from Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli and Tod’s will likely mine this heritage, the latter showing at the Piero Portaluppi-designed Villa Necchi Campiglio, an icon of Milanese architecture.
Alongside our daily report on the shows, to bring Milan Fashion Week Men’s to life this season the Wallpaper* editors on the ground will be offering a real-time look at the weekend’s happenings – from behind-the-scenes glimpses to access to the shows, presentations and parties. Stay tuned. JM
Meet the editors
Jack Moss is Wallpaper’s fashion features editor, reporting for the magazine’s digital and print editions – from international runway shows to profiling the style world’s leading figures.
Jason Hughes is Wallpaper’s fashion and creative director, overseeing all style content – from fashion and beauty to watches and jewellery – as well as leading the visual direction of the magazine.
Orla Brennan is a London-based fashion and culture writer. At Wallpaper*, her ‘Uprising’ column is a monthly profile of the style world’s rising stars.
Setchu’s debut at Milan Fashion Week
A first look at Setchu’s sophomore runway show and first on Milan soil, having held its debut as part of Pitti Uomo last season. Founded by Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata and based in Milan, the label marks the culmination of a two-decade-long career in fashion, spanning stints at Savile Row, London upstart Gareth Pugh and Parisian powerhouse Givenchy. The result is sensitive and intelligent menswear where the technical rigour of Western tailoring meets the fluid line of traditional Japanese dress. For the Milan debut, Kuwata chose Galleria Ordet, where a series of disparate installations – including traditional woven fishing baskets and a station preparing sushi – recalled the designer’s Japanese roots. The collection itself was one of colour and play, seeing Kuwata’s de- and reconstructed silhouettes – like a safari jacket which hung off the shoulder like a bag – overlaid by intricately woven structures in raffia, while enormous hats used the same traditional technique. Jack Moss
C.P. Company’s ‘Behind the Seams’ project
This season, Lorenzo Osti, the president of C.P. Company – and son of founder Massimo Osti – invited a number of the brand’s loyal community to its Bologna headquarters, a historic site of clothing innovation, for a special project titled ‘Behind the Seams’. Speaking to Wallpaper* at the presentation in Milan yesterday, he spoke of a desire to see the company from an outside perspective, using a series of filmed conversations with these figures – which span various disciplines, from designers to musicians – as they explore both the Massimo Osti Archive and research and development areas. Alongside the videos, which in the exhibition space at the brand’s Milanese headquarters were played on a series of hanging screens, was an exploration of the processes behind its S/S 2026 collection: namely, new iterations of C.P. Company’s seminal ‘Goggle’ and ‘Mille’ jackets. This season, they were reimagined in the sci-fi sounding Bi-TM, Gore G-Type, Opal-C, and Rafia-R fabrics – a demonstration of C.P. Company’s technical prowess in fabric.
For those not in Milan, a Bologna exhibition – which opened earlier this month – marks 20 years since the death of founder Massimo Osti (a venerable figure in Italian streetwear, he was also the founder of Stone Island). Taking place at the Palazzo Pepoli, a sprawling display maps a path through the menswear pioneer’s career and extensive archive. Alongside a faithful reconstruction of his Bologna studio, the exhibition – titled ‘Ideas from Massimo Osti. From Bologna: Beyond Fashion’ – reveals how Osti’s love for military and sports uniforms, obsessive garment testing, and years-ahead experiments in fabric construction gave rise to some of C.P. Company’s most iconic designs. Perhaps the best known is the goggle-hooded Mille Miglia jacket, which he originally created for officials of the classic car race of the same name in the late 1980s (this year’s race fittingly concludes tomorrow in Brescia). Jack Moss, Orla Brennan
Ideas from Massimo Osti. From Bologna: Beyond Fashion is on view at Palazzo Pepoli, Bologna, until 28 September 2025.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label S/S 2026
Ralph Lauren Purple Label S/S 2026
A ‘modern voyager’ is how Ralph Lauren described his man for S/S 2026, presenting the Purple Label collection yesterday evening in the courtyard of the opulent Palazzo Ralph Lauren (originally Casa Campanini, the Mino Fiocchi-designed building now serves as a private member’s club owned by the American brand). As such, the idea of practicality was at the heart of the collection: riffs on safari jackets came with a multitude of pockets, while leather bombers recalled the aviator jackets of mid-century explorers. Fabrics, said Mr Lauren, were a focus – ‘our journey through the world’s finest textiles,’ he described – with airy silk-and-linen mixes looking particularly appealing in the sweltering Milanese heat. Elsewhere, belt buckles and jewellery crafted from silver and turquoise were a collaboration with silversmith Neil Zarama of the Chiricahua Apache Nation, part of Ralph Lauren’s ongoing Authentic Makers programme. Jack Moss
Dolce & Gabbana’s ‘Pyjama Boys’
Sleepwear staples were elevated and embellished at Dolce & Gabbana’s S/S 2026 show in Milan
It was out of bed and onto the street for Dolce & Gabbana’s S/S 2026 collection, which was aptly titled ‘Pyjama Boys’. Seeing the sleepwear staple elevated through flourishes of embellishment and embroidery, silhouettes were oversized and materials gently crumpled, while mock croc and leather overcoats were slung on, as if models had rolled out of bed for an early-morning milk run. The show ended with models exiting Dolce & Gabbana’s Metropol show space and onto the Milanese street – an echo of the house’s A/W 2025 womenswear show earlier this year. Jack Moss
Stone Island looks to the water for S/S 2026
At Stone Island’s Milanese HQ this afternoon, thoughts were – appropriately, given the sweltering heat – directed towards cooling off. The technical-wear brand’s S/S 2026 presentation was inspired by Mono Lake, a basin in the Californian desert that supplies Los Angeles with its drinking water. Using this relationship between nature and the city as a storyline, cool aqua tones and muddy desert browns formed the foundation of a wardrobe that updated cuts influenced by workwear and sailing. As ever, shapes were functional and fabrics were futuristic – including heat-reactive cottons, frosted chenille dégradé, enzyme-bleached denim, and down hand-sprayed with reflective micro glass spheres that mimic the shine of frozen water. The key item this season is a Marina sailing jacket cut with scuba trim. With outerwear as its most popular export, Stone Island is hoping the design makes a big splash in 2026. Orla Brennan
It takes a village at Jacob Cohën
It is 40 years since Italian denim brand Jacob Cohën was founded by the Bardelle family in Ponte Longo, Venezia. This evening in Milan, owner and collections director Jennifer Tommasi Bardelle opened the doors – or, indeed, a vast set of denim curtains – to a faux ‘village’, complete with bucolic cornfields, market stalls, and even a casino, constructed in a former warehouse and clad entirely in blue denim (‘it’s a small (JC) world’ quipped a copy of imaginary local newspaper The Jacob Cohën Voice). Populated with the ‘JC Community’ wearing the brand’s S/S 2026 collection as they whipped around on bikes or played in the ‘Jacob Cohën Village’ marching band, the mood was one of ‘décontracté elegance,’ as Tommasi Bardelle described. Later in the evening a performance came from French supermodel and musician Carla Bruni – a figure that Tommasi Bardelle called a ‘guest of honour and beauty who perfectly honours the Jacob Cohën aesthetic’. Jack Moss
Paul Smith’s Milan Fashion Week debut
The good thing about having an office overflowing with a lifetime of memorabilia like Paul Smith? You never know when something special from the past might pop up and inspire you next.
Recently, it was a souvenir book from Cairo that reappeared as if from nowhere that Smith had picked up while exploring the Pyramids with his wife, Pauline, many moons ago. Featuring scenes depicting the joy of travel in a hot-house palette with a healthy dose of nostalgia, the keepsake became the starting point for the S/S 2026 collection unveiled in Milan on Saturday afternoon.
‘One of the girls [in the office] must have pulled it out to look at it and as soon as I saw it, I thought it would be a great starting point for this show,’ enthused Smith during a preview with Wallpaper* ahead of the show. ‘Look at all these lovely colours and then look at my colours; we’ve got the green, the blue, the red, the yellow, the pink! This show is all about the colours you see when you travel.’
Read Scarlett Conlon’s full conversation with Paul Smith here.
Best in show: Wallpaper* highlights the standout collections of S/S 2026
Models take to the streets at the finale of Dolce & Gabbana runway show, Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026
Alongside on-the-ground updates from Milano, the Wallpaper* style team is spotlighting the strongest collections of the season throughout the week. So far, a yearning for sun-strewn escape has emerged as a unifying theme. Mr Armani’s absence was notable at his S/S 2026 Emporio Armani show yesterday following a recent hospitalisation, though his presence was felt in the sun-baked glamour of a collection that drew on the colours and textures of northern Africa. Elsewhere, Paul Smith made an intimate salon-style debut at his Milan HQ (where his brand has had a home for 22 years, but never shown) with a love letter to the markets of Europe and the bold textiles of Cairo. Travel was the starting point of newcomer Setchu’s Milan debut on Friday too, opening the week with a sharp, playful display inspired by a recent fishing trip to Zimbabwe. So far, it would seem the impulse in Milan is to relish in life’s simpler pleasures – holidays, pastimes, and the beauty of a sunset. Orla Brennan
Read our full Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026 report here.
Prada lets the light in
A first look at the show set for Prada’s S/S 2026 menswear show, taking place in Milan this afternoon. Part of a continuing partnership with OMA (read about their 25-year collaboration here), the hangar-like Deposito space at Fondazione Prada has been stripped back to its essence, its high windows revealed to let the sunlight stream in. On the floor, a series of surreal flower-shaped rugs in hues of black and white, lining the vast concrete runway. Jack Moss
Prada’s S/S 2026 collection captured a surreal escapism
Prada runway show at Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026
A surreal escapism permeated Prada’s S/S 2026 menswear collection, shown this afternoon in Fondazione Prada’s Deposito space. ‘A shift of attitude – a dismantling of meaning,’ said co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons of the collection, which featured micro shorts, colourful raffia hats and shrunken tracksuits and captured a feeling of summertime ease. ‘Often you have a very specific architectural proposition, a shape, a shoulder, a waist,’ said Simons backstage. ‘From the start we said we don‘t want that. We want everything to be human. We want everything to be light, fresh and colourful. It’s very free.’
‘This is the first time the Fondazione is completely bare, with the light coming in,’ Simons continued. When asked what prompted the change, Miuccia Prada added, ‘It's out there. You feel it,’ no doubt referencing the difficult times in which we are living. ‘We wanted to show something in this moment that, hopefully, feels positive and balanced,’ Simons added. ‘Sometimes it’s good to reflect and be a little bit more calm.’ Jack Moss, Orla Brennan
Tod’s pays homage to its Gommino driving shoe
The driving shoe is having a moment in Milan. On Sunday afternoon, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showed various iterations as part of their S/S 2026 menswear collection (versions came two-toned, fringed, or in an intriguing leather which looked etched across its surface), while just hours later Tod’s staged an homage to its own car shoe, the Gommino, at the idyllic Villa Necchi Campiglio. As models lounged around the pool (the Piero Portaluppi-designed home is best known as the setting of Luca Guadagnino’s I Am Love), the Italian house staged the ‘Gommino Club’, seeing Matteo Tamburini’s S/S 2026 collection displayed on a specially constructed tennis court in the grounds. The collection – which also drew inspiration from the Gommino – was one of ‘leisure and ease’, comprising languid tailoring, sporty striped sets, and checkered car coats, while accessories featured roomy totes and new riffs on the Gommino, including a lace-up sneaker with the driving shoe’s distinctive ‘pebbled’ sole. Jack Moss
Catch up on yesterday’s show highlights
Between presentations from Canali, Tod’s and Montblanc yesterday in Milan, two runway shows were the headliners of the day. In the afternoon, editors and celebrities – including Harris Dickinson and Riz Ahmed – milled into the Deposito building at Fondazione Prada (where the brand has shown since 2018) to see the space, for the first time ever, completely sparse save for a few flower-shaped rugs. With sunlight streaming through the never-before-opened windows, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented a collection that channelled an airy kind of escapism through an eclectic wardrobe of micro shorts, raffia hats, and classic masculine attire of a 1970s bent. Later in the day, Simon Holloway brought a British sensibility to an exceptionally beautiful evening in a Milanese garden, presenting a collection that enlivened the stuffy codes of English aristocracy with the tearaway glamour of rock stars like Bryan Ferry. Orla Brennan
Read our full Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026 report here.
Giorgio Armani channels the ease of Pantelleria
Giorgio Armani’s S/S 20926 runway show
The season’s escapist mood continued this morning at Giorgio Armani, where the Armani/Teatro had been transformed into the namesake designer’s beloved Pantelleria – the volcanic Italian island 60-miles-or-so off the coast of Sicily (Mr Armani spends each August on the island, where he has a home constructed from two renovated dammusi, Pantelleria’s traditional dwelling).
Featuring enormous black rocks – evocative of the island’s unique geology – and a serene ocean horizon across the walls, the island’s mood of relaxation and escape permeated the collection itself, which comprised languid silk tailoring, airy loose-weave knitwear and palm-tree prints across blazers and canvas bags. Head of men’s design Leo Dell'Orco once again took Mr Armani’s place at the end of the show as the designer continues to recuperate at home after a recent hospitalisation. Jack Moss