New York Fashion Week A/W 2018 editor’s picks
Esteban Cortazar: clean sculptural silhouettes with South American flourishes characterised Esteban Cortazar’s A/W 2018 collection. Amongst some of the highlights were long poncho-style wool coats paired with vibrant pom pom fringing, zigzag patterned knitted gowns and gossamer-like silk trousers and skirts that evoked the passion and flavour of those southern climes. Accented with talisman-like jewellery and refined boots, the collection was as romantic and evocative as the Argentinian Mercedes Sosa song that played as models walked out. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Gabriela Hearst: in celebration of her tenth collection, Gabriela Hearst looked back to the design principles that have always been her calling card. Looking to be uniforms of Victorian coal miners and WWI and WWII factory workers, Hearst crafted a utilitarian yet beautifully crafted suite of pieces that included sleeveless coats in sherling-like cashmere and blazers in plaid shantung. To round things off, Hearst also unveiled five new handbag styles, including a lunchbox style, binoculars case and a camera bag that doubles up as clutch. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Dion Lee: with four simple words: lingerie, military, sensuality utility, Dion Lee summed up the ethos of his latest collection. A dynamic combination of contrasting elements, Lee’s womenswear and menswear were strong, yet seductive, and edgy yet wearable. Versatile button-up details, which cleverly revealed cut outs when undone, and sheer ribbed tops were amongst some of the highlights — as was jewellery designed by Jordan Askill and Lee’s own line of shoes. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Area: the playful, psychedelic ethos of Area was out in true form this season with iridescence aplenty featuring in their latest collection. Staged poolside in the basement of a Lower East Side high school, the label’s youthful energy took shape as glittering lurex blazers, animal print trousers, paint splatter prints, patchwork faux fur jackets and body-skimming fur-trimmed dresses in a multi-coloured display.
Tibi: architecture is often a cherished influence for fashion designers, but for this season Tibi’s Amy Smilovic looked even deeper - to the bones and foundations of the city’s many construction sites - for inspiration. From raw construction materials to the bright fluorescent colours of safety signage and equipment, the label turned out a power-infused wardrobe of sleek suiting, sporty knitwear and pared-down dresses, ideal for modern, everyday life. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Jason Wu: inspired by the way Ettore Sottsass and Michele de Lucchi incorporated emotion into design and product functionality, Jason Wu combined technology and couture craftsmanship to create his latest collection. The designer’s experimentation with fabric treatments, which included engineering pleats, manipulating material into twists, knots and wraps, and applying crystal embroidery, worked effortlessly together to caress the human form. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Rosetta Getty: the inventive approach to materials of artist Analia Saban was a key inspiration for Rosetta Getty’s latest collection. From the incorporation of thick cording as belts for dresses and embellishments on exaggerated cuffs, to the playful use of buttons to hold up asymmetric panels on coats, Getty’s signature take on easy, everyday elegance was taken up a notch. This was also amplified by a stronger focus on tailoring this season. Slender and sophisticated, yet still sensual, thanks to the use of textured fabrics and a terracotta and clay-toned colour palette, the collection was inviting, thoughtful and charismatic, and was presented against a space designed by Paul Johnson. Photography: Charlie Engman
Tory Burch: the Beaux Arts-era space known as Bridge Market, located under the Queensboro Bridge in Manhattan, provided the perfect backdrop for Tory Burch’s A/W 2018 runway show. While the historic white tiled surfaces and elegant Guastavino vaults already set a memorable tone, Burch went one further and cultivated a luscious field of pink carnations, which referenced Pina Bausch’s ‘Nelken’, for models to amble through. Inspired by the effortless style of Lee Radziwill, the mood for the season was unabashedly romantic. Amongst the many layers of floral and paisley patterns, diaphanous tulle, sheer ruffles and long-haired shearling, Burch presented a feminine mix of tailoring, knitwear and functional outerwear that formed a truly comprehensive wardrobe. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Diane von Furstenberg: Nathan Jenden presented his debut collection for the brand, after the sudden departure of Jonathan Saunders in December. Jenden worked at the label from 2001 and 2011 as creative director, and his first A/W 2018 collection as chief design officer and vice president of the house featured ruffled detail and retro print interpretations of the brand’s signature wrap dress, bold phoenix motif playsuits, leopard print jackets and fluffy knitwear. There was an air of sultry seventies glamour to the collection, which represented a new era for the label.
Paul Andrew: The shoe designer, who will also unveil his debut collection as creative director of womenswear at Salvatore Ferragamo during Milan Fashion Week, adopted a red, white and black colour scheme for his eponymous A/W 2018 collection. There were lace up patent ankle boots, pointed mules with graphic silk bows, gem embellished court shoes and chunky snakeskin creepers. Feminine yet fierce, rebellious yet romantic.
Self-Portrait: it was a distinctly new era at Self-Portrait this season with designer Han Chong showing barely any of the lacework and cut-outs that made the line famous. In their place were structural leather vests, plaid parkas and suiting, roulade shirt dresses and cropped cardigans that still emanated the label’s spin on sexiness. Also on view was the label’s first release of sunglasses - three oval disc styles, complete with mini light guards. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Philip Lim: the designer took a more nostalgic tack than usual and presented a romantic collection that was a pastiche of childhood memories. Exaggerated ruffles, patchwork florals and oversized jewellery took on a child-like wonder, while asymmetric silhouettes, deconstructed elements and chunky lug sole footwear perpetuated the label’s cool, urban edge. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Zero + Maria Cornejo: innovation has long been at the heart of Zero + Maria Cornejo. From her signature amorphous silhouettes to her flair for mixing prints and textures, Maria Cornejo’s label has in its twenty years of being, consistently embodied an avant-garde spirit. This season was no different with sustainability being a key focus. Materials used ranged co-conscious cashmere to regenerated textile trim made from waste products. Teamed with asymmetric cuts, coccoon-like draping and a jewel-toned colour palette, the label’s take on classic dressing continues to be as relevant as ever. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Ralph Lauren: last season Ralph Lauren celebrated the glamour of automobiles, holding his catwalk show inside his cavernous classic far-filled garage. For S/S 2018 was designer was looking far flung beach destinations, setting up a domestic scene inspired by the plush beach homes or hotels that in Jamaica. The collection was equally upbeat and serene, with colour popping, floral and tie-dye dresses, nautical knitwear and tailoring. Sweeping us away was this diaphanous white gown, tied to resemble a thrown own dressing robe. Insouciant resort wear with a capital R.
Maryam Nassir Zadeh: downtown darling Maryam Nassir Zadeh, whose eponymous Lower East Side boutique has championed intellectual, artistically driven designers since its inception, presented an equally thoughtful assortment of her own with her latest collection. For A/W 2018, the designer looked to opposing elements and bestowed her pieces with a liberating energy that was emphasised by the use of colours such as bright orange, acid yellow and iridescence. Mashing up masculine and feminine tropes such as ruching, tailoring, asymmetry and structure, Zadeh’s creations were delicate yet almost protective, like an armour. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Rag & Bone: Marcus Wainwright eschewed a catwalk show, favouring instead to release a film titled ‘Why Can’t we Get Along’, choroeographed by New York City Ballet’s Benjamin Millepied. Starring Kate Mara, the video featured actors and dancers swinging across and hanging from a cavernous warehouse, wearing a variety of downtown Rag & Bone wares, including gauzy checked dresses, skinny tailoring, puffer jackets and duffel coats. A collection to make a song and dance about indeed!