Milan Fashion Week A/W 2017 womenswear editor’s picks
Arthur Arbesser: Inspired the trapeze artist Marion in Wim Wenders Wings of Desire, Arthur Arbesser presented a collection of vivid patterns, boldly coloured suits and black and white graphics. Models bounced by wearing 3D- knitted sock boots that were created in collaboration with rubber sole specialist Vibram. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Church’s: The footwear label’s latest collection was one with many debuts: a Chelsea boot finished with a double strap, derived from it’s men’s Monkton style, its ‘Leaf’ range, culminating in a a selection of classic styles, with a sharper pointed front, and bringing the collection to new heights - its first pair of high heels
Furla: Celebrating its ninetieth anniversary, creative director Fabio Fusi’s milestone collection for Furla took inspiration from ninety years worth of music, from the Charleston to hip-hop. Fusi imagined a series of detachable bag straps for its Signature ‘Metropolis’ bag design, featuring emblems of musical genres, from eighties punk, embellished with studs and a denim heart, to fifties rock and roll, finished in polka dot leather and a bow
Jimmy Choo: Jimmy Choo’s presentation was set in a happy house of freshly mono-coloured rooms. The versatile collection ranged from suede pointy flats and chunky soled boots to embellished high cut pumps and sock boots crafted in crushed velvet. Signature elements such as studs and leopard print were seen on several shoe designs, as well as its Lockett clutch and Arrow bag
Valextra: The Italian leather goods house presented its A/W 2017 collection inside its Snarkitecture designed via Manzoni boutique. The space, featuring a fluffy cloud like ceiling, mesh walls and spongy presentation tables, debuted the new Passepartout design- a hybrid bag finished in shearling, weaved textures or ponyskin that can be worn as a top-handle tote or duffle bag
Sara Battaglia: The designer’s second ready-to-wear collection was comprised of masculine fabrics, precisely and impeccably tailored to highlight the female body. The accompanying new bag styles-featuring colourful concertina leather details- are as poppy and playful as one would expect from the vibrant designer
Antonio Marras: With a diverse cast that included dancers from Milan’s Teatro della Danza, the models in Antonio Marras’ A/W 2017 show, danced, waltzed and ran down the catwalk, even joined by a tiny white dog for its finale. The collection was equally imaginative, featuring ornate patchwork prints, heavy embellishments and colourful chunky knitwear. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Bulgari: For A/W 2017, Bulgari reimagined its ’Serpenti Forever’ bag in multicoloured spots and geometric patterns, complete with its signature snake-head closure. The Italian jewellery and accessories house also presented its newest Divas Dream bag, featuring a graphic metal clasp, inspired by the mosaics at the imperial Baths of Diocletian in Rome
Valentino: For the launch of Valentino’s debut glasses collection designed in collaboration with Luxottica, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli hosted an immersive event at the opulent Palazzo Clerici. The new opticals and sunglasses include aviator, cat-eye and square frames, designed in metal and nylon and adorned with crystals
Giuseppe Zanotti: The Italian shoe designer looked to the opulent aesthetic of the 1920s for his A/W 2017 collection. Showcased in rooms boasting Oriental screens and geometric flooring, his collection featured gem-embellished and fringed designs inspired by flapper dresses, knotted velvet stilettos inspired by the details on turbans and fantastical Japanese dragon motifs
Krizia: From boxy jackets and loosely fitted pleated dresses, to playful knitwear and asymmetric leather satchels, Krizia’s latest collection is one that looks forward to the future while staying harmoniously in tune with the brand’s history. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Roberto Cavalli: Focus was laid upon signature Roberto Cavalli codes and Italian craftsmanship. Shining the spotlight on the work of its skilled artisans, the presentation brought details of the opulently embellished silhouettes and intricate recreations of exotic animal skin to the forefront
Kiton: A first for Kiton this season is the option to personalise the brand’s double-faced coats. Customers have the opportunity to have their initials embroidered, as well as decide on the colour, from the coat itself down to the stitching used for the button holes
Casadei: Nineties minimalistic lines and Byzantine maximalism came together in the latest collection of Casadei, with rubies, emeralds and sapphires marking every step
Dondup: Dondup’s creative director Manuela Mariotti presented a complete wardrobe of simple yet effective garments. Focusing on craftsmanship and style Mariotti explained: ’It’s a new idea of modernity that has no need of eccentricity’
Duvetica & Santoni: Outerwear brand Duvetica and iconic shoe label Santoni have created a double-brand capsule collection that offers sneakers for both men and women. The small collection brings the key features of Duvetica, such as nylon, zip fastenings and innovative fabrics, together with Santoni’s expert footwear know-how. The six styles are available in black or white, and are made of the finest nappa leather and finished detachable nylon padded details
Fratelli Rossetti: Inspired by lounging seventies aristocrats, Fratelli Rossetti’s presentation featured models reclining on sofas, surrounded by rugs and cushions displaying moccasins, clogs and masculine loafers bejeweled with crystals. Designs came in rich velvets and metallic leathers, in an opulent colour palette of gold, bright red, midnight blue, and purple
Bally: The brand delved into its own archive for A/W 2017. A delicately stitched bow-detail heel took inspiration from a 1936 women’s style, while a men’s creeper with a jagged sole was plucked from a Bally design from the fifties. The showcase included Bally’s ready-to-wear collection, comprising ten men’s and ten women’s looks, among them double-breasted coats in camouflage ponyskin and leopard print ponyskin split hem skirts, lined with luxurious gold leather
Woolrich: Founded in Alaska, the world’s oldest outerwear label harked back to its roots for A/W 2017. Reinterpreting its signature ‘Arctic Parka’, a piece invented in 1972 for Alaskan pipeline workers, the modernised version featured a long collar and detachable hood, while a compartmented parka bag with two zippers means it can be carried on the go. Another parka style featured a strip of grey fabric on its back, inspired by the blankets Woolrich supplied to troops during the American Civil, First and Second World Wars
Ruco Line: Founded by husband and wife Marco Santucci and Daniela Penchini, Italian footwear label Ruco Line celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. Famed for inventing the ’tricot’ sneaker – a hybrid design combining the trainer and the heel – the brand has branched out with embellished version for A/W 2017
Moncler Lunettes: Moncler Grenoble’s A/W 2017 collection was split into three sections of functionality, dependant on the extremity of its wearer’s alpine pursuits. The label’s A/W 2017 Lunettes collection echoes such practicality, with styles inspired by seventies ski goggle shapes, thirties mountaineering styles and others inspired by the quilted down jackets that Moncler is renowned for
Alanui: Nicolò Oddi’s debut collection focused solely on native American patterned cashmere cardigans, as the designer pushed the Alanui brand further in collaboration with his sister Carlotta. An oversized fisherman’s jumper, poncho and hooded cardigan were added to the brightly patterned collection
Fontana Milano 1915: The discreet Italian bag label does not work according to fashion seasons, instead creating impeccably crafted bags to its own well-paced time schedule. Its classic designs, including the signature ‘A’ bag are here to stay, reimagined in different and luxurious colour ways and leather and metal combinations
Vionnet: Its first season showing as part of the Milan Fashion Week schedule, Vionnet’s A/W 2017 collection featured colourful bias cut dresses, mannish trouser suits, whimsical bird print pyjama jackets and youthful frayed denim
Loro Piana: Known for its luxe cashmere, Loro Piana presented a carefully edited selection of soft capes, cosy knits and the brand’s evenly well-crafted Milky Way bag. A small shoulder bag with side pleats, made of soft calfskin and lined with nappa leather
Sergio Rossi: Set in a geometric and industrial glass box, Sergio Rossi’s show revealed the next chapter of the ’sr1’ collection. Models strolled by, wearing new styles ranging from stretch nappa leather over-the-knee boots to sr1’s debut pointed pump
Dušan: Dušan Paunovic maintains an impeccable focus on fabrication and silhouette, and for A/W 2017 the designer imagined voluminous shapes, from wide-legged trousers to gently flaring jackets in beautiful browns and navy. Textures came in herringbones and tweed blazers and coats, one outerwear design featuring luxurious leather-buckle sleeves
Herno: Surrounded by visuals of garment details, dancers dressed in black brought Herno’s latest collection to life. Each dancer donned a coat, moving serenely at their own pace, their movements emphasising the practical utility of Herno’s A/W 2017 pieces
Golden Goose: Golden Goose imagined a story of a New York-based young woman exploring her Venetian heritage, reflected via vintage postcard prints and tapestry-like fabrics. Elsewhere, a modern modern vision of New York shone through in comfortable denim and metallic parkas
WUNDERKIND: Renowned Potsdam-based designer Wolfang Joop worked as a painter and illustrator before launching WUNDERKIND in 2003. His second runway show in Milan, Joop’s A/W 2017 collection reflected his strength in fabrications, with shapes of the moment, like hoodies, oversized suits and smock dresses imagined in lustrous velvet, fluffy tartan, florals and collage prints.
Agnona: Creative director Simon Holloway opted for a retro-hued colour palette for A/W 2017, imagining plaids, furs and luxurious knitwear in browns, blues and reds. Standouts included an oversized camel polo-neck with colourful fur trimmed sleeves, a denim jacket and knee length skirt with orange stitching, and a ribbed knitted skirt in rich blue layered with a flowing asymmetric jumper
Paula Cademartori: Presented in a verdant Milanese greenhouse, Paula Cademartori drew inspiration for A/W 2017 from the blooms in winter gardens. Multicoloured flowers were inlaid into bags using complex leather techniques, and featured alongside beautiful pearl and mink details. Footwear designs included petal detail multi-strapped stilettos and alluringly transparent ankle-boots
Bertoni 1949: The brand’s signature women’s styles were crafted in different luxury materials such as French calf leather, shearling and alligator, in a graphic and vibrant palette of Mark Rothko inspired colours. The mens’ collection, titled ’Spirit of 69’, was inspired by youthful subcultures and graffiti, translated into a muted palette of black, brown and burgundy tones
Brunello Cucinelli: The A/W 2017 collection flitted between life in the city and the stillness of being in nature. Informal tailoring and city coats were easily dressed down with corduroy trousers and thick knits. The collection was imagined in a palette of natural tones like cumin, hazelnut brown and olive green mixed with winter greys, Oxford blue and metallics
Gianvito Rossi: For A/W 2017, the Italian footwear designer looked to the East for inspiration, with shoes featuring kimono-bow, beaded dragon and metallic floral details. Also renowned for his luxurious simplicity, Rossi also created pointed boots and ankle-strap sandals in minimalist white leather.
Fay: Playing to their strengths, Tomasso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi created tailoring in cropped proportions and more androgynous oversized shapes, including square shouldered plaid overcoats and mutton sleeve knitwear. Milanese sparkle came in jewel embellished mini skirts, and party dresses finished in snakeskin and shimmering midnight-blue sequins
Elena Ghisellini: The illustrious Italian bag designer titled her presentation See it through the right light, and her new designs, which included miniature bags in bold velvets and suedes, handbags in geometric panels of leather and luxurious embellished clutches, were encased in coloured perspex hues, that echoed the bright blues, reds and oranges in the collection.