Ports 1961: A series of interlocking colour-blocked walls were erected in the center of the in-the-round runway set, housed underground at the Tate Modern. It was against these forms that stylist Karl Templer presented his new archetype-breaking, print brimming and individualistic vision for the Canadian brand, one primarily associated with shirting. For spring this meant a new take on classic forms, like cut-and-sew panelled trench coats and tuxedo suits reimagined as all-in-ones. Foulard silks displayed a plethora of patterns, from tropical hibiscus prints to Chinoiserie, zebra stripes to naive wildcat illustrations, which were mixed and mashed across long pleated skirts and shirts. The accessories for this new eclectic woman, who favours prints, colour and chunky hand stitched knits? Layers of chunky plastic jewellery and pouches suspended on sculptural carabiner clips.
Wright Le Chapelain: Imogen Wright and Vincent Le Chapelain got green-fingered for their debut LFW presentation, turning four tree beds into repurposed flowerbeds, on Argyle Walk in Central London, with their models carrying wheelbarrows and planting medicinal and edible plants, including loveage, valerian, chives and Moroccan mint. In a strong commitment to sustainability, the duo’s S/S 2020 collection was made entirely using upcycled clothing donated to the homelessness charity Crisis. The label have an off-kilter take on tailoring which works to explore the modern European wardrobe. Puppy-tooth check jackets were deconstructed into panel skirts, sailor collar shirt dresses were cinched with striped, shirt-sleeve like belts and jackets were spliced into sleeveless coats.
0 Moncler Richard Quinn: The London-based designer celebrated the launch of his Moncler collaboration – part of the Italian outerwear label’s innovative Moncler Genius project – with a prismatic installation at Matchesfashion’s 5 Carlos Place townhouse. The London based designer’s collection was inspired by retro skiwear from the Fifties and Sixties, and features daisy, hibiscus and leopard print quilted coats and hats festooned with ostrich feathers. His pieces were presented against a floor to ceiling floral landscape, and a comfy sofa swimming with hippy-centric daisy patterns.
Phoebe English: The designer is one of London’s sustainability-minded talents, from the fabrics she uses in her garment construction, to her attention to a pared-back idiosyncratic silhouette. Corkboards formed the backdrop to her S/S 2020 men’s and women’s presentation, pinned with swatches and information about the environmentally-friendly manufactures, standards, processes and fabrics she worked with for spring, from Ramie, an antibacterial Asian nettle which can be grown without irrigation to natural indigo dyeing. Her collection included shirting with oversize pockets, ruched skirts, sailor cape dresses and striped blouses.
Dilara Findikoglu: The self-confessed sorceress of British fashion held a mass ritual in a cavernous underground space in Marylebone, its walls sloshed with blood red anarchic symbols and lined with talismanic wicker sculptures. The occult-obsessed designer used her show to protest against climate change, and a bare-chested model, his body painted with the slogan ‘Vivienne says buy less’ alluded to Vivienne Westwood’s environmentalist mantra. Male and female models sported slashed moire dresses, waist cinching suiting, mirco corseted dresses and weaved witch-like hats, crafted from deadstock fabrics and using natural dyes and embroidery made by women in Findikoglu’s native Turkey.
Sharon Wauchob: The designer returned to the women’s show schedule with a sublime men’s and women’s show held at St Cyprian’s Church in Marlyebone. She straddles minimalism and adornment, tailoring and femininity with masterful form, and for S/S 2020 this meant a look back into Wauchob’s own archives, with a collection featuring dresses animated with fringing and plumes of ostrich feathers, oblique cut suiting and sharp tailoring in monochromatic shades punctuated with reds, lilacs and sugary pinks. Wauchob also teamed up with the Bulgari Heritage Collection, teaming her looks with archive pieces from its Monete and Serpenti collections.
