London Fashion Week A/W 2018 menswear editor’s picks

London Fashion Week A/W 2018 menswear editor’s picks

Belstaff: 2018 marks the 70th anniversary of Belstaff’s classic Trialmaster jacket, and to celebrate the brand exhibited a timeline of archive jackets charting its evolution from 1948 to the present day. Taking the jacket as a starting point, creative director Delphine Ninous focused on its association with British subcultures, that manifested itself in a collection of youth infused outerwear. Shrunken biker jackets came with leopard and velvet inserts or covered entirely in tiny paint speckles. Elsewhere, the brand’s four-pocket parka was reimagined in luxurious camel with street smart high-vis reflective strips. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans


A-Cold-Wall: Samuel Ross studied graphics and illustration alongside product design before working as an assistant to Virgil Abloh of Off-White for three years. During this time, he was involved in designing garments as well as working on catwalk staging, retail installations and films for the brand. Inspired by his past, yet looking to an uncertain future, Ross presented a collection of post-apocalyptic streetwear. Models paced slowly through fallen iron girders in wellington boots, their faces occasionally covered by tightly pulled hoods. Garments were often deconstructed and stamped with a season serial number - a pair of trousers came with one clear plastic leg, while a heavy duty rib knit jumper had a clean graphic square cut out from its side. Outerwear was key - lightweight nylon windbreakers billowed in movement, and a  neatly cut quilted jacket alluded to armour. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans


Phoebe English: The designer’s intimate presentation, set against a backdrop of garment toiles was the perfect setting to observe close up the designers eye for detail. Shirts with transparent buttons and delicate granddad collars sat alongside others with scalloped sleeves and longer length hems. A collaboration with knitwear designer Helen Lawerence saw textured waffle and fine rib jumpers made from soft British lambswool in tomato red and inky blue. Elsewhere a trench coat came in a lightweight waterproof waxed cotton and workwear inspired jackets in heavy duty moleskin.

Phoebe English

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