Shape shifting: making moves with photographer Roos Quakernaat
Roos Quakernaat caught our eye at the latest Hyères Festival of Fashion and Photography. So we did the patronly thing and tasked her with artfully tangling new Dutch design and this season’s key looks, as she explains here in her own words.
Fashion: Isabelle Kountoure. Writer: Elly Parsons. As originally featured in the January 2018 issue of Wallpaper* (W*226)
‘I started taking pictures when I was very young; capturing my favourite puppet in all kinds of positions and landscapes. Back then, shooting on film was a serious (if naive) activity.’
Clockwise from left, windbreaker (around waist), £999; hooded top, £750; shorts, £350, all by Tod's. Shoes, £620, by Marni. Blazer, £1,000; trousers, £700, both by Pallas. Left earring; bracelet; ring, prices on request, all by Acne Studios. Right earring, £165, by Annie Costello Brown. Shoes, price on request, by Marni. Coat, £2,600, by Gucci. Boots, £1,150, by Off-White c/o Jimmy Choo. Ring, price on request, by Acne Studios. ‘Rocking Home’ swing, price on request, by Zöe Jacobs
‘I attempt to show a different kind of sexuality than that created by society. We’re living in one where femininity and beauty seem to be one whole. The concepts are strongly intwined in a historical and cultural context. Are you more female when others find you more beautiful? I've always been drawn to women, it makes me quite proud to be photographing them, and I feel an extra responsibility to show how strong I think they are.’
‘For me the glamour of photography has always been attached to its physicality – an old analogue album, a passport photo in a wallet, a football sticker in a bag of chips.’
Left, shirt, £765; jeans, £420, both by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Shoes, price on request, by Y/Project. Bracelet; ring, prices on request, both by Acne Studios. Dependent Object no. 5, as before. Right, jumpsuit, £2,350, by Roberto Cavalli. Sandals, €695, by Pierre Hardy. Earrings, £165, by Annie Costello Brown. ‘Brewie’ coffee maker, €500, by Miles Loogman
‘I like to explore the vernacular of everyday objects: the space they occupy, the movements they engender and their relation to the role of woman in particular.’
Far left, dress, €972, by Atlein. Shoes, £895, by Off-White c/o Jimmy Choo. Left, dress, €1,950, by Dolce & Gabbana, shoes as above. Dependent Object no. 5, price on request, by Chan Chiao Chun. Right, shirt, €700; trousers, €610, both by Y/Project. Dress (worn as top), €425, by Eckhaus Latta. Left earring £165, by Annie Costello Brown. Right earring; ring, both price on request, by Acne Studios. Shoes, £465, by Salvatore Ferragamo. 'Rocking Home' swing as before.
‘Through my work, I am attempting to sum up the struggle I feel to fulfil the multiple roles of a woman, maintaining the balance of artist, companion, lover, mother and housekeeper while trying to retain a semblance of individuality in such exhausting domestic circumstances.’
Left, blouse, £840; skirt, £750, both by Prada. Boots, £1,150, by Off-White c/o Jimmy Choo. Ring, price on request, by Acne Studios. Right, trousers, £870, by Valentino. Shirt, £600, by Sies Marjan. Earring; right, both price on request, by Acne Studios. Green Object, price on request, by Sejoon Kim
‘I have an admiration for all kinds of forms that the human body can have, even in its imperfections.’
‘Equilibrium’ stool, price on request, by Guglielmo Poletti, from Galleria Rossana Orlandi
‘Two years ago I bought an old, Dutch woman’s encyclopedia from the 50s, intended to tell woman about physical exercises, appropriate clothing, relaxation, body and home hygiene. It showed 50s fashion, and the models were set against an even background, in a common pose, very appropriate. As a viewer you almost feel like an intruder, they where depicting life the way the viewer sees it. I was inspired by this.’
Left, coat, £13,300, by Bally. Shirt, £550; trousers, £505; shoes, price on request, all by MSGM. ‘Alta’ ladder, from €780, by Johan Viladrich. Right, bikini top, £290; bikini bottoms, £425, both by Salvatore Ferragamo. Sandals, £1,045, by Chanel. Bracelet; ring, prices on request, both by Acne Studios
‘I look at objects in direct relation to the human body and the environment. I attempt to make literal connections between the body and furniture or clothing. It can be very organic and liberating to divert or attach the object to someone as a kind of extension.’
‘My grandmother was a great amateur photographer and she made the best photo albums, vacation albums, family albums, wedding albums. I could look and read her little notes for hours. I bought my first camera when I was 18, three months later I started documentary photography at the Royal Art Academy in the Hague. Later, I studied at the Rietveld were there was more room to experiment.’
Left, cardigan; jumper, both price on request, by Loewe. Blazer, £1,340; trousers, £920, both by Ellery. Shoes, £620, by Marni. Left earring, £165, by Annie Costello Brown. Right earring, price on request, by Acne Studios. ‘Wove’ chair, price on request, by Studio Truly Truly. Right, Jacket, £1,065; skirt, £535, both by Bottega Veneta. Shirt, €390, by Arthur Arbesser. Shoes, £465, by Salvatore Ferragamo. Dependent Object no. 5, as before