From footwear expert Santoni’s confectionary cabinet presentation, to Glenn Marten’s debut for Diesel Red Tag, we present the Wallpaper* pick of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019
Giuseppe Zanotti: The Italian footwear aficionado presented a collection of clashing footwear styles for S/S 2019. Standouts included a new modular sneaker that can be customised by the wearer with interchangeable slogan Velcro patches, and a series of white leather tennis shoes covered in vivid paint splashes. Elsewhere, flyknit high tops came with heavy moulded soles and skater slip-ons in faded denim.
Church’s: Stepping out at Church’s this season is an update of the brand’s classic ‘Shannon’ style, this time appearing as a monk shoe in ink blue leather with a bold silver buckle side fastening. Elsewhere, the cobbler revisited its ‘Shanghai’ shoe by adding canvas panels alongside introducing a boot style in two tone aged leather. The brand’s signature ’Pembrey’ penny loafer gets ready for the summer sun in super soft suede.
Diesel Red Tag: Diesel Reg Tag recruited Y/Project designer Glenn Martens for its second season (its first was launched by Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver). Martens presented a cool and confident collection of manipulated separates. Trousers came with ultra high waistbands and super slouchy leg lengths (a Y/Project staple), while jackets and blazers appeared warpped with draped panels and screw weft fastenings. Denim was key, but offset with more traditional tailoring fabrics for a ‘formal-meets-street’ feel. The accompanying collection lookbook was photographed by conceptual artist Hans Eijkelboom, featuring a diverse group of street cast individuals.
Jimmy Choo: creative director Sandra Choi explored new technological advancements in materials and manufacturing in a collection of ultra-light styles for summer. Japanese inspired whipstitching, machine-knitted uppers and a resin-dipped effect were some of the techniques used to striking result. Standouts included the brand’s signature skater sneaker being given a luxury upgrade in crocodile, and deck shoes with fold-down back to be worn as a slider.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label: The label took to the seas in a nautical inspired collection for S/S 2019. Seafaring tropes were updated in technical fabrications – a classic Harrington emblazoned with a graphic boating motif came in water resistant laminated cotton, while a lightweight windcheater was reimagined in gold metallic ripstop with tapped seams. This season also sees the introduction of the ‘The Ralph Suit’, inspired directly by the designer’s personal take on tailoring – a broad shouldered double-breasted jacket with neat waistline fastening at the bottom button.
Santoni: The Italian footwear label held its S/S 2019 presentation at a traditional Italian cafe in the heart of Milan. Guests were invited to enjoy ice cream as shoes from the collection were humourlessly presented within glass confectionary cabinets and served up on trays by waiters. The brands classic single and double strap monk shoes appeared in the softest leather, while their heels and soles were left untreated to keep in line with a more minimalist mood. Elsewhere, the pared-back direction continued with unstructured suede desert boots with eliminated seems, and elegant loafers in refined exotic skins.
Kiton: Alongside showcasing a collection that focused on relaxed lightweight suiting, Neapolitan tailoring brand Kiton continued to push the possibilities of fabric development with their ’KTN’ collection. Designed by twin brothers Mariano and Walter De Matteis, the collection is made from a super fine yet strong cotton yarn created by Kiton at the brand’s Naples factory. Lightweight knitted hoodies and track pants had an airy quality, while flyknit high top sneakers came with soles that can be customised on purchasing.
Dondup: Fabrics were the focus at Dundop this season. Lightweight rain jackets with drawstring waists came in high shine Tyvek. The crinkly papery material that doesn’t tear was ingeniously coated to create a metallic finish reminiscent of metal. Elsewhere, a classic Harrington appeared in a laminated coated tartan and cross body bags came in the cardboard-like material normal used for denim tags.
DSquared2: This season DSquared2 designers Dean and Dan Caten took to the frontline with a military inspired collection. Recognisable elements of army uniforms were cleverly patchworked together to create bombers and multi-pocket cargo pants. Voluminous trousers were cut in army green parachute silk, while camouflage print was spliced together with graphic shots of bold colour in a series of field jackets. Souped-up sneakers of tank-like proportions were ready for action. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Canali: Designer Hyun-Wook Lee’s debut S/S 2019 collection for Canali had an easy elegance that breezed through the heat of Milan Fashion Week. Lightweight construction was key – unstructured almost shirt-like blazers and bomber jackets in wool silk linen blends were teamed with matching trousers offering new suit propositions. Fine crew neck knits offered a nonchalant alternative to the workday shirt, while a new line of smart tennis shoes grounded the laidback mood.
