Film: Moncler Gamme Bleu show
2009 was a year of many 'moments' - bizarre, beautiful, brilliant gasps of creativity that stood fast against the flood of recessional gloom. Moncler Gamme Bleu's S/S 2010 show was perhaps the finest and hence we awarded it 'Best spectacle' in our Wallpaper* 2010 Design Awards.
Click here to watch the film: Moncler Gamme Bleu's A/W 2010 show
And yesterday's A/W 2010 show proved the formidable union of Moncler's proprietor Remo Ruffini, creative director, Thom Browne, showman, Étienne Russo and musician, Michel Gaubert, was far from a one off.
Putting their best feet forward, quite literally, the show was staged with a military theme in the Teatro alla Scala at the Padiglione Visconti. It wasn't military in the tired vein of boots and buttons, nor military of the Leni Riefenstahl school that worked so well for their previous show (though Riefenstahl would no doubt have approved of the meticulous aesthetic operation). This was military with a more jubilant, imperial tone, set to a synthesised version of Ravel's Bolero.
The show started with models lying on camp beds, patrolled by officers. A trumpet sounded the beginning and the models rose, dressed themselves in their looks and then stood to attention at the foot of their beds. The patrolling officers inspected the outfits and, after the odd straightening of a jacket and tucking in of a shirt, one by one the models filed their way around the catwalk and back to their original position.
This wasn't simply an exercise in neat dressing, it was a masterful display of every creative element at play in a modern fashion show coming together with extraordinary synchronicity. For fear of sounding like a stuck record, the components came together to create a show-stopping spectacle. Of course we'd expect no less from our 'Best spectacle' winners, but even we were of the opinion that last season's show would be difficult to top...