The grooming trends that defined Paris Fashion Week S/S 2015

Givenchy: Ruling the season's graphic eyeliner trend, Pat McGrath played with balance and proportion at Givenchy. Eyebrows were bleached, with definition brought to the face by way of an exaggerated cat's eye reaching from the sides of the nose to the temples. Instead of the usual black, McGrath used a mahogany brown, which softened the overall effect. Locks were simply washed, dried, straightened and left smooth and glossy

(Image credit: press)

By Alice Shaughnessy

published 17 November 2014

**Stella McCartney**: Time will tell if Stella McCartney and Eugene Souleiman can bring crimping back into fashion, but a few carefully placed strips provided a note of interest in an otherwise paired-back look that was dominated by strong, shaped brows

The only makeup at Van Noten's show this season was a 'lip ring', painted onto each girl by Peter Phillips — **Dries Van Noten**: Another bohemian girl, but not quite a rebel – the only 'makeup' at Van Noten's show this season was a 'lip ring', painted onto each girl by Peter Phillips. Sam McKnight also left the hair direction totally natural, with locks worn long and loose in a carefree way

**Chloé**: This season's envy-inducing hair styling was once again sculpted by Eugeine Soulemain: think thick, healthy and glossy. Lucia Pieroni left the make-up totally natural, as was the style of this show

**Acne Studios**: There was a subtly contoured tonal make-up look at Acne, defined by strong, groomed brows. Squeaky clean hair was brushed back and set away from the face

**Balmain**: Olivier Rousteing refers to his legions of supporters as the Balmain Army, and with that image in mind this spring show's grooming was strong yet sensual. Hair was slicked back away from the face for minimal fuss. Make-up, while usually minimal at Balmain, was bronzed, with a silvery sheen on the cheekbones to catch the light

**Akris**: 'Versatile' and 'refined' were two key moods offered by Akris creative director Albert Kriemler from which Guido Palau and Diane Kendal created the show's grooming brief. Models' hair was slicked back and lifted up, held in place by visors created by Stephen Jones Millinery. Make-up was minimal, with curled eyelashes, strong brows and natural lips

Peter Phillips continued the graphic eyeliner trend seen in Milan, shown here at Dior in a fresh baby pink — **Dior**: Peter Phillips also continued the graphic eyeliner trend seen in Milan, shown here at Dior in a fresh baby pink. The rest of the face was left totally natural – and hair as well, combed in a centre parting and brushed through

**Haider Ackermann**: The soft pinks of Ackermann's collection were recreated in both the hair and make-up direction. A vivid coral shadow was used all over the eyes – but to keep it fresh, white was used on the inner rim and corners to liven the eye. Extremely short, cropped wigs with a subtle rinse of pink were put on each girl. Eyebrows were bleached to bring unity of colour to the face

**Hermès**: Thick, glossy hair. Clean, fresh and lightly contoured skin. The Hermès woman is into minimal make-up and haircare; her grooming focus instead placed on maintaining beautiful skin. Subtle bronzing powder and a light balm on the lips offered all the gloss she needs

**Kenzo**: Carol Lim and Humberto Leon offered a spider diagram to explain their S/S 2015 collection in lieu of a formal press release. Several catch words could easily have be applied to the hair and make-up: graphic, clean, lightness, purity – all shown here with sculptural, windswept hair, fringes pushed forward over the face. Make-up was almost icy, with a silvery highlight on the eyes and lips

**Isabel Marant**: Unfussy hair and very minimal make-up have always been signatures of the Isabel Marant look, whose brand of cool Parisian chic is being rapidly exported around the globe to huge success. This season's minimal grooming supported this laid-back mission

The key feature is a strong, groomed brow and some subtle countouring around the eye — **Lanvin**: The dream team of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau created a make-up look at Lanvin, which enhanced the natural beauty of several iconic faces, Amber Valetta among them. The key feature was a strong, groomed brow and some subtle countouring around the eye. Otherwise the skin was fresh and glowing. Hair was pulled away from the face into soft chignons and secured with a golden comb

**Loewe**: For his first womenswear outing at Loewe, Jonathan Anderson presented a collection 'in which lightness pervades'. To that end, his models' faces didn't fight for attention with the clothes – even eyebrows were bleached to prevent distraction. Hair was centrally parted and worn loose but smoothed down to a subtly shiny finish

Mc Queen Grooming — **Alexander McQueen**: Though Japan provides a wealth of beauty inspiration each season, this tends to come from the arresting make-up of Geishas than the samurai look. But here Guido pulled back the hair into a tight chinon, using plenty of gel to draw it away from the ghostly white faces, and let a black-lacquer frame provide a stark contrast for the make-up

The look created was fresh and dewy with wet hair left to air-dry slightly — **Moncler Gamme Rouge**: Another iteration of minimal beauty – the Moncler girl walked down a runway displaying a rippling water projection. With that in mind, the look created was fresh and dewy with wet hair left to air-dry slightly, leaving a natural wave. Skin got a smattering of fresh, pink blush and shimmering highlighter

**Rick Owens**: With nearly the entire collection produced in tulle, this was a more delicate Rick Owens woman than we've seen in previous seasons. Owens' desire to reflect on the balance between 'hard newness and classical grace' resulted in a pale, translucent make-up base by Lucia Pieroni to bring an otherworldly quality to the skin. To complement, Luigi Murenu created a lived-in hair style

Model with spidery eyelashes and pastel eyeshadow — **Rochas**: Spidery eyelashes and pastel eyeshadow were seen again at Rochas, as well as hair with a natural side parting, tied in a loose, low ponytail

**Sacai**: Hair and make-up were on the same page at Sacai. Bleached brows were key, while the focus was otherwise on perfect skin. Hair was left long and loose with artfully placed wisps left to fall over the face to avoid looking too polished

**Roland Mouret**: A low, loose ponytail provided minimal distraction from the star of the show: a bright orange lip applied and then gently blotted, so the intensity of colour remained but the application was softened – an easy way to introduce colour in the warmer months

Tousled hair paired with a smudgy, lived-in smokey eye — **Sonia Rykiel**: Like Isabel Marant, Sonia Rykiel is strongly associated with the ideal of Parisian beauty. Here, we saw her in rock'n'roll mode. Long, loose, tousled hair was paired with a smudgy, lived-in smokey eye

**Jean Paul Gaultier**: For his last-ever ready-to-wear show, Jean Paul Gaultier went out with a bang – no minimal make-up here. His showgirls weren't afraid of sporting a bold red lip and a bright blue eye

**Vionnet**: The French house presented the most severe example of this season's ponytail, worn high on the head and tightly tied with a thick white band. This was balanced by a softly contoured face, which saw brows brushed skywards towards models' hairlines

**Valentino**: Though the collection may have been rooted in more earthly delights (Rome and the Grand Tour were listed as inspirations), the show's beauty direction had an otherworldly quality, recalling that mythological siren the mermaid. Softly waved hair was half pulled back around the head and decorated with golden jewels. Dewy skin was paired with a soft pink lip and delicate metallic eyes

The surrealism was interpreted in the make-up via a doll-like beauty with a heavy application of rusty red blush and lipstick — **Wunderkind**: This season's Wunderkind collection focused on 'transcience and life as an absurd and surrealistic dream'. This surrealism was interpreted in the make-up via a doll-like beauty with a heavy application of rusty red blush and lipstick, balanced by fresh skin. Hair was covered by cropped wigs cut into short, choppy sections

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