It is a truth universally acknowledged that, when it comes to fashion, the basics are the hardest to master. Chief among them: the white T-shirt.
The white tee is the quintessential element of the capsule wardrobe. It adapts to nearly any aesthetic: it can be dressed up or down, layered or worn solo, accessorised or left plain, and is a year-round essential, equally useful under shirts, jumpers and jackets when the temperature falls.
Wallpaper’s fashion and creative director Jason Hughes and fashion features editor Jack Moss are united in their devotion to the white tee. ‘It’s the foundation of almost every outfit I wear,’ says Jason, who is rarely seen without a flash of white peeking from beneath a sweater or shirt. For Jack, the white T-shirt is ‘probably the garment [he wears] most’, again, usually layered under a shirt or sweater. As for me, I favour a pared-back, Scandinavian aesthetic, for which the white tee is indispensable. Pair with low-rise jeans, tailored trousers, a silk skirt… the options are almost endless.
What makes the perfect white T-shirt?
This elusive garment avoids extremes: not too tight at the neck, shoulders or waist – but not tunic-loose. The sweet spot? A slightly dropped shoulder and a relaxed silhouette. As for length, aim for hip level – just long enough to flatter the form without skewing proportions.
‘Because a T-shirt is so simple, its shape really matters,’ says Jack, who gravitates toward looser, boxier fits, adding, ‘it has to have a high crew neck’. Loose and boxy is a good rule of thumb for women, too; a too-snug tee will bunch at the waist and pull at the hips. If you want a smooth silhouette, don’t be afraid to go oversized. Acne Studios, COS and Arket all do models that fit the bill.
The best white T-shirts are substantial but breathable, with a GSM which offers structure and longevity. Jason’s go-to is a heavyweight crew-neck from US utility brand Pro Club. Jack also leans toward heavier cottons, swearing by classics like Gildan and Fruit of the Loom, but lately he’s been enjoying Extreme Cashmere’s cotton-cashmere blend (‘it falls really nicely’, he says, thanks to the softness of the superfine knit).
The best white T-shirts, according to Wallpaper*
Classic white T-shirts
Cut from mid-weight cotton with a slight stretch, Lemaire’s T-shirt balances structure and softness. Its boxy silhouette, dropped shoulders and wide sleeves create shape without bulk, and a single chest pocket adds a utilitarian touch. Plus, the garment dyeing gives the fabric a rich, softened feel.
Drake’s’ menswear is inspired by mid-century sportswear, and the crew-neck Hiking T-Shirt combines vintage style with contemporary quality. Made from substantial cotton jersey that maintains its shape, and with a length that suits both tucking in and wearing loose, this tee boasts the perfect relaxed fit.
This is a contemporary take on the classic white T-shirt, featuring a boxy, cropped silhouette with dropped shoulders. Made in Los Angeles from recycled cotton, it showcases reversed inside-out seam detailing and a dye treatment for lasting colour, blending premium materials with sharp construction.
Known for its considered wardrobe staples, Studio Nicholson focuses on proportion, detail and fabric quality that retains shape. The regular-fit Bric T-shirt is the perfect example, combining simple design with premium cotton jersey for a piece you’ll wear again and again.
Sunnei’s Everyday Classic T-Shirt is a clean, versatile staple crafted from garment-dyed cotton, with subtle flair in the form of the Italian brand’s signature grosgrain tab on the hem. The easygoing fit, meanwhile, offers everyday comfort while reflecting the Italian craftsmanship of the brand.
Cult white T-shirts
Eytys, the Scandinavian label which draws inspiration from Brutalism and the post-modern design of Ettore Sottsass and Shiro Kuramata, executes a classic with architectural precision with the Leon tee. Made from soft, 100 per cent organic cotton, this piece features a distinctive double collar that adds structure to its minimal silhouette. The relaxed, unisex fit is enhanced by a small embroidered logo on the chest.
Our Legacy’s New Box T-Shirt exemplifies Scandinavian style with its wide boxy fit, fine rib collar, straight hem and overlocked shoulder seams. A subtle logo tab identifies the brand, which, since 2005, has combined subculture-inflected designs with a focus on fabric and finish.
Blue Blue Japan creates cotton-jersey tees inspired by traditional Japanese craftsmanship – with roots in indigo dyeing, the brand’s pieces develop beautiful natural fades, lending long-lasting character. This tee features durable parallel stitch construction and is woven on a high-gauge knitting machine for a soft, silky finish.
Jack describes Extreme Cashmere’s tees as ‘amazing’; this one blends 70 per cent cotton with 30 per cent cashmere sourced from Inner Mongolia, creating an airy yet plush fabric-feel with natural insulation. The brand’s genderless pieces offer premium texture, supreme lightness and ultimate durability.
The Rugby T-shirt is Lady White Co.’s boxiest, heaviest tee, crafted from ten-ounce jersey with a rigid drape that softens over time. It features a set-in collar, wide proportions, relaxed shoulders, a tight neckline and a straight hem – the perfect formula.
Despite being known for its more avant-garde garments, Rick Owens does ‘a very good white tee’, according to Jack. The Short Level Tee offers exceptional drape, finish and craftsmanship, made from 100 per cent cotton with a classic crew neck and ribbed trims. Signature visible shoulder and back seams set this piece apart.
Luxury white T-shirts
This Celine Homme T-shirt features breathable, mid-weight cotton jersey with a slight stretch and a loose fit. Its embroidered chest logo elevates the clean, minimal design, balancing luxurious detailing with effortless style.
Made from mid-weight 100 percent cotton, this Brunello Cucinelli tee offers a comfortable, loose fit with minimal stretch. Featuring a crew neck, short sleeves and subtle logo embroidery, it exemplifies the Italian craftsmanship of the brand.
The Row is the champion of quiet luxury, and its Wesler tee embodies this with its pure cotton fabric and minimalist design, featuring only a subtle centre seam along the back. With its short sleeves and crew neck, the tailored proportions of this T-shirt suit both layering and standalone wear.
Known for artistic influences and refined fabrics, Dries Van Noten combines comfort with minimalism in this simple, 100 per cent cotton staple. This lightweight tee has a regular fit, short sleeves and a classic crew neck.
Distinct for its slightly elongated length and heavyweight cotton, this T-shirt showcases careful proportions and clean design, balancing structure with softness. A leather patch, meanwhile, does branding tastefully.
Sustainably-minded white T-shirts
Weighing in at a substantial 330 grams, this crew neck T-shirt is made from 67 per cent Tencel™ lyocell – a fabric made from wood pulp in a closed-loop process that recovers solvents and water – and 33 per cent pima cotton, a fabric blend that provides silk-like softness, breathability, and a rich drape that naturally fades over time.
Japanese label Auralee is known for its use of natural fibres like organic cotton, linen, wool and silk, often using recycled materials. The Luster Plaiting T‑shirt is built for longevity, standing out for its relaxed silhouette, soft hand feel and excellent shape retention.
A.P.C. embraces sustainability through organic cotton, avoidance of harmful washes, and recycling programs for returned clothing. This T-shirt embodies the brand’s easy Parisian elegance, with breathable cotton-jersey, an off-white hue and subtle logo embroidery.
James Perse, known for its elevated staples and underwear, combines quality materials with lasting design, reducing the need for frequent replacement. Crafted from soft combed cotton-jersey, this piece offers reduced pilling and enhanced durability compared to regular cotton.
Everyday white T-shirts
This T-shirt is a durable workhorse made from 100 per cent organic cotton, designed to withstand daily wear without the designer price tag. A regular fit, thick crew neck, and solid structure make it excellent value for money.
This is Jason’s favourite white T-shirt: 'It has a great neckline that sits high, giving a clean, defined line,' he says. Additionally, the garment's 6.5-ounce cotton boasts American-heritage sturdiness: ‘The weight makes it substantial enough to be worn alone without looking too casual.’ Other features include a boxy fit, strong hems and double-needle stitching.
The regular fit of these crisp white tees makes them versatile for either wearing alone or layering. Crafted from soft cotton with rib-knit crewnecks and chest patch pockets, the fact that you get two pieces for this price is perhaps best of all.
Arket’s tailored-fit, shorter-sleeved, ribbed-neckline T-shirt offers better quality than most mass-market equivalents, making it a well-rounded wardrobe essential. Made from long-staple cotton, it balances a comfortable weight – not too heavy or sheer – with a refined shape.
This T-shirt’s cotton and polyester blend incorporates moisture-wicking technology which draws sweat away from the skin to keep the wearer cool, dry and comfortable. It also features a crew neck, ribbed trims and a subtle embroidered logo, taking it seamlessly from outdoor utility to urban style.
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