Offbeat placing, diamonds and cool cuts: Shahla Karimi’s architecturally inspired jewellery
Fine jewellery is given a cool spin by the New York-based designer Shahla Karimi, who riffs off architectural references for her eponymous brand
‘I’ve always tried to approach design like an architect rather than a jewellery designer,’ says New York-based Shahla Karimi, who riffs off architectural references when creating the distinctive jewellery for her eponymous brand. ‘Each capsule feels like a unique site, shaped by a specific moment in time and context. This perspective helps me explore different directions without being limited to one aesthetic. While the forms may differ, they all share a common design language that connects them.’
Karimi has quickly established a strong visual identity throughout her extensive collections, focusing on boldly drawn lines, unexpected stone placements and sensual silhouettes that eschew stiffness to swoop and flow over the body. In the Wiskup X Shahla ring created in collaboration with Evan Wiskup, a juxtaposition of cuts bring a sharp modernity.
In her jewellery, she looks to the lines and ratios in architecture for inspiration, with recent capsule collections inspired by Herzog & de Meuron, Hossein Amanat, Antoni Gaudí, Le Corbusier, and Balkrishna Doshi. During a recent visit to Mumbai, she also began to appreciate buildings including Le Corbusier’s works in Chandigarh and the Indian Institute of Management, designed by Louis Kahn.
‘The Le Corbusier capsule is hallmarked by framed diamond baguettes mounted atop high-polish platinum and gold representing the modernist concrete and clean lines of Chandigarh, with the natural integration of the reflection pools, together forming a balance of form and soul,’ says Karimi.
It is an aesthetic she draws on more generally throughout her jewellery designs. ‘I tend to connect the most with buildings that have bold geometry and clean lines, modernist and postmodern architecture of late. The architects that inspire me incorporate modern materials like concrete, glass, steel and now sustainable alternatives. They leverage the latest in technology to create things the world has never seen.’
The Wiskup X Shahla ring created in collaboration with Evan Wiskup
Karimi approaches form versus function as an enjoyable challenge: ‘Each piece needs to be both comfortable and ergonomic, and producable. Production can be challenging, especially when working with fabricators and finishers who have honed their craft in a certain way for decades. We’re fortunate to have innovative partners who embrace new ideas. They skillfully fuse different metals, bezel-set custom-cut diamonds – no easy task – and collaborate with us to develop algorithms that predict fit for non-traditional rings, like the Azadi wraps. Understanding how much a wrap displaces size on a finger is complex, requiring multiple rounds of design and quick iterations.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Hannah Silver is the Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*. Since joining in 2019, she has overseen offbeat design trends and in-depth profiles, and written extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury. She enjoys meeting artists and designers, viewing exhibitions and conducting interviews on her frequent travels.
-
'I want to get into these images and perfume them': Linder's retrospective opens at the Hayward Gallery
'Linder: Danger Came Smiling' gathers fifty years of the artist's work at the Hayward Gallery. We meet the punk provocateur ahead of her first retrospective
By Hannah Silver Published
-
The new Riva Iseo Super continues the Italian manufacturer’s mastery of motorboat design
A sleek 27-foot runabout, the Riva Iseo Super showcases the factors that make Riva synonymous with waterborne elegance and style
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
New York restaurant Manuela masters the art of contemporary dining
The latest restaurant from Hauser & Wirth’s hospitality arm, Manuela offers a masterclass in nourishing connections
By Dan Howarth Published
-
Ulla Johnson’s collaboration with artist Julie Hamisky on the A/W 2025 runway is blooming lovely
Ulla Johnson and French artist Julie Hamisky have created 12 new jewellery pieces for the designer's A/W 2025 runway
By Hannah Silver Published
-
LVMH watch week 2025: everything we know so far
Our guide to LVMH Watch Week 2025, taking place in New York and Paris, starting 21 January; keep an eye out for our updates
By James Gurney Last updated
-
Dyne is a New York jewellery brand fusing fluid forms with futuristic flair
Dyne embraces striking materials and silhouettes for very modern jewellery
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Time For Art 2024: ten unique watches to bid for at the charity auction
The Time For Art 2024 auction sees unique watches go under the hammer at Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, on 7 and 8 December
By Thor Svaboe Published
-
‘Given hip-hop’s roots in New York, the chance to tell this story in this city is very special’
The American Museum of Natural History plays a blinder with ‘Ice Cold: An Exhibition of Hip-Hop Jewelry’, a cultural trip through jewellery design
By Caragh McKay Published
-
Bernard James’ flora-inspired diamonds mark ten years of Dover Street Market New York
Bernard James’ jewellerydebuting at Dover Street Market features rings, earrings and necklaces inspired by blossoming flora
By Alfredo Mineo Published
-
Reed Krakoff ushers John Hardy jewellery into a new era, and refreshes its New York store
The ‘Spear’ jewellery collection riffs on John Hardy’s signature handwoven chain, while the boutique nods to the brand’s Balinese heritage
By Pei-Ru Keh Published
-
Tiffany & Co opens redesigned New York store, The Landmark
Peter Marino and OMA New York, led by Shohei Shigematsu, are behind Tiffany & Co’s vast new Fifth Avenue flagship
By Hannah Silver Published